AlWahaSign3
There are two restaurants in the country that serve Bedouin food and one of them, Al Waha, is right here in St. Louis. Never heard of it? That’s because the signage went up just a few days ago. Never heard of Bedouin cuisine? It's OK, jump in line behind me...my unfamiliarity borders on cluelessness. Riyad Alwadi will change all that, though--you see, his ancestors were Bedouin.
Diners frequenting the Grand Ave. melting pot may remember him as the former owner of Petra Cafe and Hookah Lounge (3177 S. Grand). He recently purchased Sameem (same block, at 3191 S. Grand), which had built up a respectable following for its Afghani food, even garnering props last year in SLM's "30 Best Dishes". Al Waha will be broader-based: it will showcase both Afghani and Bedouin cuisine. Alwadi will tell you the two are similar, but different.
All I remember from 4th grade Geography is that the Bedouin were nomadic desert herders who traveled from place to place in search of fresh pasture. (I never learned that their cuisine differed slightly, depending on their country of origin.) Within the last half-century, Middle Eastern settlement policies forced the Bedouin to settle down (so to speak) and adopt the life of conventional farmers and ranchers. But their traditions--yes, we may even see tents!--and their cuisine remain.
Al Waha’s menu includes dishes from the Bedouin tribes of Saudi Arabia, Lebanon, Syria, and Jordan. (Before finalizing the menu, Alwadi placed calls to his mother and grandmother--back in Jordan--to verify the authenticity, ingredients, and proper spicing for each dish.)
Traditional Bedouin dishes tend to be one-pot affairs, with an emphasis on meat, available vegetables, milk-based sauces, and dried fruits and nuts. Yoghurt (made in-house at Al Waha) is a common staple. Check out the full menu, here.
And be prepared for a healthy dose of Bedouin hospitality…remember, in the desert, everyone is welcome and no one is ever turned away. And so it is at Al Waha, Arabic for “the oasis.” Expect Alwadi to greet you with a smile and a wee bit of cardamom-infused coffee, a drink with deep cultural ties. It is proper to always accept the teeny-tiny portion, and always do so with your right hand.
Al Waja is an adventure that will take several visits to fully absorb. My journey is just beginning. –- George Mahe
