Ask George: What's your favorite ethnic restaurant in St. Louis? Jason R, U City, Mo
Since Jason and I are friends, in normal conversation I'd rail on him for asking such a general question and demand that he, to put it in modern terms, "refine the search," but as this discussion only goes one-way, I hereby declare a six-way tie:
Everest Cafe: One of my favorite lunchtime getaways, the Nepalese/Korean/Indian buffet options are not large, but the quality is high. Its footprint in The Grove is teeny: you'll feel like you're at a party at someone's apartment, one of those parties that are memorable maybe because of the intimacy of the space. Having charming owners (Devi and Connie States), a friendly staff, and strings of Mt. Everest "prayer flags" seals the deal. 4145 Manchester, 314-531-4800
Mai Lee: The humongous, 300-item Vietnamese/Chinese menu is as broad as the smile on owner Qui Tran's face. Undecided? You're far from alone, so ask Qui for a suggestion. He'll suggest a new favorite and you'll make a new friend. 8396 Musick Memorial, 314-645-2835
Meskerem: It starts with the "look, ma, all hands" premise of Ethiopian food: your meal comes on a "platter" made of of injera, a sturdier-than-a-crepe--type pancake that serves as plate, utensil (Bart Simpson called the process "rip and dip"), bread course, and napkin. Parts of the injera naturally become soaked with sauces and juices (and we'll snatch those up when you're not looking). Owner Henok Gerbi makes sure his place will be a rewarding, tasty, and all-around fun experience. 3210 S. Grand, 314-772-4442
Milagro Modern Mexican: In their hometown of Webster Groves, brothers Adam and Jason Tilford have successfully "shot the gap:" they've raised the bar on Mexican food while also accommodating the basic, beans and rice crowd, creating a place where both foodies and fuddy-duddies leave happy. A recent remodel translates into Milagro being visually rewarding as well. 20 Allen Ave., 314-962-4300
Pearl Cafe: This unobtrusive, "don't judge the book" little hideaway is one of NoCo's gems, where owners Scott and Tommy Truong have deservedly claimed several of the city’s “Best Thai” awards. And ever since the instution of their "Spicy Level 25 Plus Club," Pearl Cafe can arguably claim the title as "The Hottest Restaurant in Town." 8416 N. Lindbergh , 314-831-3701
Riverbend Restaurant & Bar: The Creole gods were smiling when owner Sam Kogos convinced noted New Orleans chef Steve Daney to move to another French-influenced city. The result is a dynamite rendition of red beans and rice, an étouffée we can't get enough of, a bread pudding that's untraditionally light and airy, plus gumbo, a seafood chowder, and a turtle soup (on occasion)-- we'd crawl to Soulard to get a bowl of any one of them. 701 Utah, 314-664-8443
Note that in these recommendations I named names, and for a reason: one constant of the above restaurants is their above-average owners, in all cases extremely affable and likable, eager to shake a hand/make a friend...and thorough in the pursuit of their dreams. It makes a huge difference. It creates vocal and return customers. Would that all restaurant owners understood the simplicity and importance of this.
