Photograph by Kevin A. Roberts
We're told we should support independent restaurants, but eventually a group of restaurants—locally-owned or otherwise—has to be called a "chain." Now what? —Tom J., St. Louis
More often than not, I begin these responses with "it depends..." Today, as this question is thornier than most, I defer to Oliver Hardy... "Well, here's another nice mess you've gotten me into."
A chain restaurant is one that, broadly interpreted, serves a similar menu in a variety of locations, regionally or nationwide. McDonald's is the quintessential chain. BRIO, with 37 restaurants in 17 states, is a chain. Vida Mexican Kitchen y Cantina chose the St. Louis Galleria for its second location in the U.S., opening a store with a menu similar to its flagship in Charlotte. Does that make it a chain? If the intent is to open similar, multiple units, which it is, the answer has to be yes.
It becomes complicated when one considers "local chains." Is locally owned Pasta House Co. a chain? Sure. How about The Block, that just opened its second location in the CWE? Um, yes, I suppose. Amigo's Cantina and La Cantina, both owned by Kirkwoodian Roberto Trevino? No—different names, different concepts. Then there's Pi Pizzeria, locally owned darling and blockbuster success story with five metro locations and one (plus another one planned) in Washington, D.C. Chain? Even the anti-chain zealots would be forced to say yes.
The terminology and interpretation of chains is fuzzy, gray, and, even for us, in flux.
The SLM Restaurant Guide, if for no other reason than to keep the list tidy, omits any "restaurants with more than five locations," even locally owned ones, like Pasta House Co. or Panera Bread Company.
The posing of today's question caused SLM to rethink our stance on the inclusion of local chains, as being forced to strike places like Pi would be counter-productive. So today we upped that number to ten restaurants, and look forward to seeing the next Pi.
Now see what you've done, Tom J.? Here's another fine mess you've gotten me into. But I thank you for it.
