Ask George: Bad restaurants will eventually go out of business, but so many mediocre-to-poor ones seem to survive. Why is that? —Jack B., Denver
So true, and most of us can rattle off a number of them. The reasons for mediocre food are many, which may be why so many such restaurants exist.
1. Location: Put a restaurant in a high-traffic area—like a mall or an airport concourse—and the opportunity for success increases dramatically, mediocrity notwithstanding. Convenience often trumps quality—no one likes it, but all of us succumb, sometimes.
2. Good Marketing: Catchy ads and promotions generate traffic, regardless of product. How many times have you seen a TV commercial for an item at a mediocre national restaurant chain and thought, "damn, that looks good"? A certain seafood restaurant comes to mind.
3. Deep-discounting coupons: It's no secret that Groupons and their clones fill restaurant seats, regardless of the restaurant. There's an unintended consequence here that exacerbates the problem: passers-by see a busy restaurant, conclude it must be good, and wander in, in most cases unaware why all the seats are full.
4. Reputation: Sure, Café Georges was an excellent bistro back in the day, but that day is long past. Many times it takes years for a restaurant to build up a good reputation. Unfortunately, the converse is also true.
5. Affordability & Value: For many diners, food quality is not the prime directive. That's why you see families with kids—especially those with insatiable teenage boys—at restaurants with large portions and low price points. Like it or not, were it not for places that serve cheeseburgers buried under a mountain of French fries, many families could not afford to go out to eat.
6. Average Food, Great Service: It's been proven that the quality of service often determines whether a diner returns, to the point where good service often trumps a so-so meal. In my opinion, many chain restaurants fall into this category: due largely to better training, chain servers are informed, friendly, and quick. How many indepandent restaurants open the door for you as you leave and thank you for coming, a lasting last impression?
7. Unique Ambience: Another truism—gimmicks attract diners: kitschy themes; restaurants that rotate atop buildings; big, sprawling patios; waitresses who hurl insults at diners; walls festooned with unique bric-a-brac. The shtick and/or the experience is the driver at many such places. Good food is ancillary and regarded as a bonus.
It's a shame we don't set the culinary bar a little higher here, like they do in places like San Francisco, a city where a bad meal is hard to find. That populace expects it, demands it. Unfortunately, in most U.S. cities, mediocrity is considered good enough and convenience is king.
