Photography courtesy of Schlesinger Library, Radcliffe Institute, Harvard University
Influenced by her St. Louis upbringing and cultured but sensible German-American parents, Irma von Starkloff Rombauer loathed preachy dietitians and snobbish chefs. She figured that cooks learned better by comparing notes with friends. And so, with no culinary credentials whatsoever, she self-published a chatty, irreverent cookbook—that’s since sold more than 18 million copies. With revisions continued by Rombauer’s daughter and grandson, The Joy of Cooking has become a social history of food in America, from the novelty of “frosted” (frozen) vegetables in 1936 to the craze for beef stroganoff and vichyssoise in 1943; “vegetable shortcake” (pizza) and fish quenelles in 1963; granola, flatbread, and tofu in 1975; balsamic vinegars, chili peppers, and gravlax in 1997. Rombauer’s grandson stripped that edition of whimsy and brought in professional food writers. Realizing his mistake, he restored the original warmth in time for the 75th-anniversary edition (2006). Shortly before her death, Julia Child read a few chapter proofs and wrote him immediately: “Thanks for putting the joy back in JOY.”
