An inside look at Saint Louis Fashion Fund's chess uniform competition

Designs are inspired by such things as specific chess pieces and an antique chess set.

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The World Chess Hall of Fame has partnered with the Saint Louis Fashion Fund to host Pinned! A Designer Chess Challenge. The six fashion fund designers are competing to create a chess uniform, and the winner will take home a $10,000 prize.

“I have observed the process of creating and designing to be much like playing a game of chess,” says designer Agnes Hamerlik. “Both involve immense amount of calculation, reflection, strategy, and at times risk in order to be successful.”

The two garments designers were asked to complete for the challenge include one to be actually worn by a player, and the other an avant-garde piece. Designer Audra Noyes’ avant-garde piece draws a lot of inspiration from the queen chess piece by incorporating strong power colors and Swarovski crystals. While creating her utilitarian piece, Noyes says she “focused on pushing the boundaries but also making sure it is approachable and wearable.”

Jennifer Shahade, Chess Club and Scholastic Center of St. Louis' resident grandmaster, says players are aware tournaments are sometimes viewed in over a hundred countries. She says a lot of players actually want to dress up to make it more professional and elegant. “I always like to dress up when I play, because it just makes me feel more ready,” Shahade says. “Then there is the other side, where people like to be comfortable, especially with their sleeves.”

Shahade worked with incubator designer Emily Koplar Brady. Shahade sent Koplar a video of a blitz match, where one of the players lost the match while wearing a jacket that constricted her ability to move quickly. Koplar created a blazer with fabric she describes as “flexible, absorbent, and breathable.” The piece features quilted panels on the sleeves up to the elbows, so that players are comfortable when leaning on the edge of a table while deciding their next move.

Charles Smith II, whose brand is predominantly black and white designs, says Pinned! "was the perfect challenge for me.” Not only does chess fit with the designer’s favored color palette, but he enjoys playing chess as well. He used neoprene material for his designs and incorporated black bands on the jacket sleeve, which symbolize the ranking of the player. This creates an intimidation factor for their opponent, Smith says. “Chess is psychological, so I worked that into the design.”

Bags are not allowed to be held by chess players during a match, but that did not stop handbag designer Allison Mitchell from finding a unique way to interpret the challenge. Mitchell asked herself: "How can I take these elements that are cool about the game of chess, and make some pieces for this challenge?" She was inspired by an antique chess set on display in the World Chess Hall of Fame. Mitchell worked with a St. Louis manufacturer to create a handbag that is unlike anything she has made.

Designer Reuben Reuel thought about the knight and the pawn chess pieces while creating his designs. “I wanted to create a dress that was strong, bold, and powerful; taking the weakest pieces of the game and making a strong impact with the silhouette and other design details,” Reuel says. “It was a fun challenge, and I'm looking forward to see the reaction of the judges and guests who attend the event.”

Pinned! A Designer Chess Challenge takes place Tuesday, August 1 at Windows on Washington (1601 Washington). Tickets to the event are $75 and available online.