Photograph courtesy of LILY et Cie
There are lots of books about vintage: what to buy, where to buy, how to wear it. But have you ever wanted to sink your stylish teeth into some really meaty vintage advice? Well, forget the prissy appetizers and lightweight side dishes and take some tips from me, 'cause I know what I'm talking about.
The first rule of buying vintage is no different than the one you remember when shopping for anything: If you don't love it, don't buy it. Call it ecologically friendly or financially savvy, but anything you're not going to wear is basically a stupid move unless you've stumbled across a Charles James dress for a great price. If everyone makes a big fuss about Pucci but Emilio leaves you cold, don't go there. Just because the Hollywood crowd digs it doesn't mean you have to dig it too. Just be you and be it 100 percent.
The second rule is something that most antique collectors are quite familiar with... pay the premium for condition. You cannot walk around with moth holes and spots, and you can't expect a damaged piece to be a great addition to a collection. Condition in clothing is crucial and you have every right to expect wonderful condition. Don't believe a dealer when they tell you it's in "excellent vintage condition." Is that the same as saying a woman looks good for 55? Those sorts of vague, idiotic remarks are fine when money isn't involved, but you deserve to be treated honestly and with respect when you are doing business with someone. Take the piece into clear daylight and bury your nose in it. If a piece smells like dryer sheets or Febreze, it usually means there's a cover-up going down and when that perfume wears off, that is what you are going to smell like.
Turn the piece inside out and have a look at the seams and hem. Make sure that the Gernreich minidress you're about to pay for wasn't once an evening gown. Did Aunt Florence do a little home job with her kitchen shears? Minor alterations are usually allowed and small imperfections like a tiny stain by a seam can be altered right out of the piece if you need to have it made smaller. Moth holes in wovens like twill can be rewoven, but the flatter and smoother the weave, the more conspicuous the repair. No biggie if you're going to wear it to death but if money is on your mind—or the price tag is high—it should be in original mint or near mint condition. Check out the way the label is sewn in. Is the tag in a charcoal cashmere Trigere coat sewn in with pink cotton thread? That label may have been added recently and the piece is not what you think it is. It helps to know the style of each designer so you can spot something wrong when you see it. A Halston coat from the 50s? Not quite. Fortuny from the 70s? Not possible.
Alterations are tricky. We find that a garment can almost never be successfully "let out." When one size doesn't fit you in a store, what do you do? You don't buy it and have it altered—you go to the next size. Since there is only one of a kind running rampant in the vintage world, that's just not workable. But going up a size leaves very little fabric for the seams to grip, and a wonderful dress can quickly become unstable when you take something like that on. Try a body slimmer if you need a half inch here and there or accept the fact that it just isn't kismet and say goodbye to your dreams. There are thousands of fabiulous vintage dresses. You'll find the one that's right for you, I promise.
And what about stains? Our experience is that cotton stains on colored or printed fabrics are too stubborn to even think about, so leave it behind. Underarm stains on silk jersey are also bad news and will not come out with dry cleaning, as is true for pale oxidation under the arms from a woman's pH. You can have a garment redyed successfully if the fibers are natural but synthetics do not dye evenly. Stains on poly or nylon jersey almost always come out with hand washing and cashmere responds beautifully to spot stain removal and a gentle hand wash. The only alternative to wearing a dress with underarm stains is to have the piece cut into a sleeveless top or dress. But don't expect a Pucci to be worth top dollar if you start cutting it up—alterations devalue a piece in the big scheme of things. Boutiques that chop and rework vintage are hot right now but technically, they are ruining a garment if it is in its original pristine condition and they just want to make it "sexier." Of all the hot young designers in the spotlight, only a tiny handful will be around in 20, 30 years. Beene is classic. Blass is forever but au courant is always fleeting.
Get to know a seller before you buy. Test the waters with something small, like a scarf or a pair of sunglasses. Spend a little time talking with them, check out what they have on. Listen to how they talk about things. A bitchy store owner is probably not going to be a charm to deal with when you have a problem. A seller that is ignoring you to run across the store to deal with a celebrity is also not going to be easy to work with. You are no less important than a famous model or actress and don't you forget it. Ask about return policies. Ask about where that dress came from originally. Ask them if they wear the stuff and put it back on the racks. Ewwwwwww. An online seller with an "all sales final" policy is not a wise gamble. You can never be sure of the condition of the item when you've never seen the piece and have not dealt with the dealer before. You must be able to return a piece for refund or store credit.
Let's talk money. Some people encourage you to haggle and some dealers feel their prices are already fair. You never know until you ask once but if you feel a chilly wind when you ask for a discount, make a note to yourself that you probably should not ask the same question again in the same shop. Certain designers are worth their weight in gold and that determination is based on rarity and condition. Licensed pieces should be priced lower and things that are relatively easy to find should be extremely affordable. A basic wool coat with mink collar from the 50s should never be more than $80, but a vintage Voinnet gown will be justifiably priced in the tens of thousands of dollars. Pucci is always poplualr but hold out for the pieces in good condition. If you find that the thing you love is too expensive, examine your spending habits. Most of us really can afford to charge a $1500 coat just one time on our Visas if we make sacrifices. So you don't buy eight pairs of boots this year and you buy one fabulous evening gown. We really believe in quality over quantity. One killer Roberta di Camerino handbag rather than four new trendy bags. One amazing cashmere coat instead of three mediocre leather blazers and too many pairs of sunglasses.
The bottom line is that you should buy what you love and it should be in gorgeous condition. Find out which cleaners and tailors do restoration work for museums and don't be shy about shipping your pieces out of state if you don't trust your local guy. Treat your vintage finds with respect and don't clean them too much but most of all remember, these things were intended to be worn and are magical when you find that perfect balance of fit, flatter and femme.
