Photography by Kevin A. Roberts
After working for 35 years in the family business—the legendary Tony’s restaurant—chef Vince Bommarito, Jr. wanted to spread his culinary wings. He’d been friends with Richard Nix of Butler’s Pantry since grade school, and in the summer of 2018, came on board as executive chef, eager to extend the reign of Nix’s 52-year-old catering company.
When and why did you leave Tony’s and what was the reaction to your departure?
My father and I both knew I was going to leave at some point and had been talking about it for several years. My two brothers [James and Anthony] are there, as well as my sister [Lucy], plus my dad, so there’s still plenty of coverage.
Did you ever want to do anything else?
Never. I looked up to my dad and put him on a pedestal ever since I can remember, so I never wanted to do anything other than exactly what he did which was the food service and hospitality business.
Why Butler’s Pantry?
I’d always wanted to pursue another path within the industry and the opportunity came up with Ricky [owner Richard Nix]. We’d known each other since grade school and stayed in touch. It was a good time for me and with Greg [Butler’s Pantry exec chef Greg Ziegenfuss] retiring, it was a good time for them.
You were no stranger to big, private parties.
At Tony’s, I had a hand in almost every aspect. I’d handle the initial sale, I’d cook in the morning, and would help serve the party that night. I got comfortable with--and ended up loving--the whole catering/private party part of the business. And Ricky knew that.
So were you hired to replace Ziegenfuss or were you hired to do something else?
I was hired as executive chef there but also as culinary officer, a broader term that includes all things food related plus training and working with the front of the house staff like I did at Tony’s. Right now it’s just a title. (laughs) I’m still carving out the position, not sure what the end result will be.
What’s the biggest difference between the catering business and running a fine dining restaurant?
Butler’s Pantry does a lot of high-end dinner parties, so it’s actually pretty similar. The biggest difference is that at a party, you know the precise guest count. In a restaurant, you can only hope you prepped for the right number of people and problems occur when you miss to either side.
How big of a problem are special orders for different dietary needs?
We ask for them ahead of time so we’re prepared for them. And if they pop up unexpectedly at the party, we’re still prepared for them. It’s something we anticipate and have no trouble dealing with. That said, there are a lot more special requests than there used to be.
Do you miss the day-to-day craziness of the restaurant business?
I’ve just traded one crazy for another crazy. A caterer’s crazy occurs in the daytime; a restaurant’s crazy usually happens at night, slamming out covers for 200 people. Here, we often cook for three and four times that many. Catering chefs run around just as fast or faster. There’s no down time.
What specific skills do you bring to the catering table?
Ricky recognized and appreciated the high standards—the very high bar—that we set for ourselves at Tony’s, to say nothing of me having 35 years under my belt.
Talk about the non-food aspect of what you do.
Even though we have a full, professional staff, on some events I get fully involved--from booking, to menu planning, to design, to actually working the event, similar to what I did at Tony’s. The difference is that here, I have a lot of help.
In what ways does Butler’s Pantry distinguish itself?
Recently, we changed how we present different courses. For years, guests have been served two proteins—variations on the surf and turf—and we’ve found success breaking that up, serving a medium-sized, composed plate with one protein and then doing the same with another, featuring different accompaniments. We’re serving the same amount of food, just presenting it a different, value-added way. The salad course could still exist, or the first protein course could replace the salad, or include the salad. It’s very a versatile change of pace and so new we haven’t even given it an official name, except for architectured menus, which can be tailored to any kind of event.
Are there any wedding trends that may not have made it from the coasts to the heartland?
I read a lot of the catering and wedding magazines and I’m happy to say that we’re doing everything. Venue changes—having a party within the party—are popular. After-party food now runs the gamut from full buffets to passed flatbreads and sliders, to donut walls featuring local donuts. But our main focus is just serving very good, seasonal food, whether on a composed plate, buffet, or at a food station.
Are food stations still popular?
Sure. As people dine out more, watch more food TV, and travel more, the requests follow. We’ve done basic, one-dish stations as well as build-your-owns—taco stations, ramen stations, Korean BBQ bars, risotto bars—most with different, seasonal add-ins.
Are wedding cakes in or out?
There are no rules anymore. You get asked for big cakes, small cakes, fake cakes, tiered cupcake cakes, pie cakes... Dessert assortments are becoming more popular than the wedding cake of old.
Plated dinners, buffets, cocktail party/passed apps-only receptions? Where is the needle pointing?
No one direction. It depends on the couple. Anything goes. At one wedding, we featured passed apps from all around the world.
What are the trends in beverage service?
There’s more of an emphasis on cocktails for sure. Offering a signature cocktail or two along with champagne has become the rule rather than the exception. And spirit bars—bourbon bars being the most common—are being used to complement the standard open bar.
Have craft beers also become the rule rather than the exception?
You don’t see craft beer bars as much as you see couples requesting a favorite beer or two—something they remember from college, something from their home town—to be served alongside the basics.
Have wedding receptions gotten more or less formal?
Both. The common denominator for us has been creating a unique experience and just serving very good food.
How many venues is Butler’s Pantry involved with?
Over three dozen and the list keeps growing.
