By Stefene Russell
Photography by Frank Di Piazza
There’s something shocking about the fact that Kimmswick has a 636 area code. It just doesn’t feel that close. Though it’s younger than St. Louis (it was founded in 1859), it’s billed as a place to “step back into the less hurried days of the 1800s,” and preservation efforts have left many of its historic buildings intact. But if you hitched a ride in the Wayback Machine to shake founder Theodore Kimm’s hand, you’d find a far more hurried place. Between the riverboats and the railroads (established in 1858), the town quickly filled up with merchants and settlers and had its own brewery and dozens of greenhouses that supplied St. Louis with flowers. People flocked to Montesano Springs Park on the north side of town, where they soaked in mineral pools and whiled away time at the pony track, dance pavilion or “Herr Bismarck’s Tent Show.”
In the 21st century, Kimmswick’s still geared toward leisure, but more of the eating and shopping variety. The town doesn’t have a clearly defined central business district, so you’ll do a lot of wandering; park in the lot at the center of town, across from the Blue Owl Restaurant and Bakery (Second and Mill, 636-464-3128, theblueowl.com), and be sure to pick up a dessert to go—this is the home, after all, of the “Levee-High Apple Pie,” guaranteed to contain at least 18 hand-peeled apples.
Also made by hand: the bowls, pots and decorative clay pieces at Kimmswick Pottery (6109 Front, 636-464-3041, kimmswickpottery.com), formerly the National Hotel. Christine Febert’s studio and gallery is a two-fer, offering a peek inside a potter’s studio and opportunities to pick up hand-thrown stoneware.
Ed and Sue Schaffer used to sell fragranced candles in a pop-up shelter under the name Mr. Ed’s Ozark Wood-Chop, but “the smallest store in Kimmswick” recently relinquished that title by moving into more generous quarters. They’re now The Purple Junction (6062 Front, 636-464-6466, thepurplejunction.com), and their expanded inventory includes hand-made dulcimers by Rick Thum and wooden roses imported from France. Antiques Galore (209 Market, 636-464-3925) is the place to go for retro kitchen goods, both decorative and practical. Kimmswick Korner (119 Market, 636-464-2028) replaced the town’s longest-running business, Zeigler’s Jewelry, which operated between 1913 and 1973. In homage to Zeigler’s, the store keeps a generous stock of baubles, bangles and watches on hand. You’ll find sugar, spice and even the savory at Everything Nice (303 Elm, 636-464-9696) in the form of gourmet soup and baking mixes. Be sure to go outside and visit the series of potter’s sheds that owner Peggy Williams has filled with everything from Victorian birdhouses to glass nesting bowls to baby dolls. Pameila’s Gift Shop & Animal Menagerie (6043 Second, 636-464-3866) carries statues, purses, art and garden accessories representing 125 different cat and dog breeds; Dames of Décor (320 Elm, 636-467-3700), in contrast to many of the sweet, packed-to-the-rafters antiques shops here, is a spare, carefully appointed home décor shop. Mississippi Mud Gallery and Gifts’ (6050 Second, 636-464-3360) reference to native soil is not gratuitous, since the bulk of its offerings come from local arts and craftsmen. And all this is just for starters.
If you really want to feel as if you’re traveling back in time, take a train via Rail Cruise America or hop on a Gateway Arch Riverboat Cruise—though, we’re terribly sorry to say, it’s way too late to catch Herr Bismarck’s Tent Show.
NOTE: Shops and restaurants are closed on Mondays.
