Fragrant fields of lavender were once a dream for Deborah and Steve Nathe, but now they're the center of a growing business—and cause for this al fresco celebration
Story and styling by Julia M. Usher
Photography by Susan Jackson
The Details:
The host and hostess: Deborah and Steve Nathe
The location: Winding Brook Estate Lavender Farm, Eureka, Mo.
The flowers: Melody Human and Jody Delf, Magnolia’s Marketplace, Eureka, Mo.
The caterer: Linda Pilcher, Something Elegant Catering
The invitations and menu: Diann Cage Design, Diann Cage
This was no ordinary day for Deborah and Steve Nathe, owners of Winding Brook Estate, a 16-acre lavender farm nestled in the hills of Eureka, Mo. Their tractors stayed put and all of their tools were temporarily stowed as they focused on last-minute preparations for a long-overdue gathering with family and friends. “We’ve never really entertained together, other than when we got married in 2001,” says Steve. “We’ve wanted to, but we’ve either been at one farm or the other—or somewhere in between.”
Just four years ago, this husband-and-wife team happily said goodbye to their respective sales careers, conceived of their lavender business and parlayed their limitless energy into a small plot of test plants on their Salem, Mo., ranch. Ironically, early retirement has meant work, work and more work for these entrepreneurs.
The first step toward their dream was exhaustive research. They visited a dozen lavender farms across the country to observe cultivation practices, fine-tuning the lavender varieties in their plot after each visit. The key challenge was finding strains that could withstand Missouri’s humid climate. “I read everything written about lavender, including those huge botanical tomes that no one ever reads,” laughs Deborah.
In 2004, having at last pinpointed several varieties for production, the Nathes took to their fields in earnest, this time on the Eureka farm that had been in Deborah’s family for more than 35 years. Steve re-graded and tilled two much larger plots (covering nearly six acres) and imported an impressive 175,000 tons of sand to improve drainage. Together, the duo carefully located 4,000 plants, matching each species to the perfect slope and sun exposure.
The farm now boasts 7,000 plants, three fields open for public harvesting throughout blooming season and a quirky red barn where customers can find a treasure trove of handcrafted lavender products. And, as if one fledgling business weren’t enough, this tireless team somehow launched a second in the midst of starting the first. Though Salem no longer has a test plot, it is home to a robust flock of Katahdin sheep, which are bred and grass-fed by the Nathes expressly for their tasty and nutritious meat.
“It’s a work in progress,“ Deborah says of the lavender enterprise. “Though it smells wonderful and looks beautiful, it isn’t Provence yet.” Perhaps not to her trained eye, but as her guests assemble for tonight’s al fresco affair and take in its laidback pastoral charms, they can’t help but be transported.
A rustic farm-style table sits on a crest overlooking the fields below, where butterflies frolic about the tidy rows of purple and pink. At each place setting, guests are greeted with hand-tied lavender “wands” and Mason jars brim with lavender lemonade. The centerpiece, a craggy arrangement of stones, moss and potted plants, seems to be the work of Mother Nature. Even the menu is infused with Provençal touches: Lavender and other herbs find their way into everything from savory tarts and sweet custards to the Nathes’ very own grilled lamb.
Barely through the last course, Steve and Deborah are already plotting the next venture. “We’d love to offer similar dinners to the public one day,” says Steve. For the moment, though, they seem content to be among good company, enjoying the fruits of recent labor.
The Menu:
Hors d’oeuvres
Marinated Manchego with olives and herbs
Sweet peppers with pine nuts and capers on grilled bread
Tomato clafoutis
Armagnac chevre with toasted walnut bread
Pissaladière
Lavender lemonade
Claverach Vineyards Rosé, 2005
Salad
Claverach farm mixed baby greens with goat cheese, candied walnuts, pears and pear vinaigrette
Entrée
Winding Brook Estate herb-marinated lamb loin with Tapenade butter and basil-mint pesto
Claverach Vineyards Norton, 2003
Side Dishes
Roasted new potato salad with rosemary and arugula
Provençal vegetable galette with herbed goat cheese
Grilled asparagus with prosciutto and lemon vinaigrette
Dessert
White chocolate-lavender panna cotta
Chamomile-lavender tea
The Recipes:
Lavender Lemonade
Courtesy of Deborah Nathe, Winding Brook Estate
Yield: About 6 cups
1 cup granulated sugar
2 tablespoons dried lavender buds*
Grated zest of 2 lemons
6 cups water, divided
1/2 cup fresh lemon juice
Combine the sugar, dried lavender and lemon zest in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade attachment. Process for 30 seconds. Transfer the sugar mixture to a medium stainless-steel saucepan and add 2 cups water. Place the pan over medium-high heat and bring the mixture to a boil. Boil for 1 minute and then strain the lavender syrup into a large pitcher. Discard the solids. Refrigerate the syrup until thoroughly chilled. Stir in the remaining 4 cups water and lemon juice. Chill again as needed. Serve with ice.
Herb-Marinated Lamb Loin Tapenade Butter and Basil-Mint Pesto
Courtesy of Linda Pilcher, Something Elegant Catering
Yield: 4 servings
1 lamb loin (about 1 pounds) or 2 lamb racks (about 8 to 9 ribs each)
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
4 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
3 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh rosemary leaves
6 thyme sprigs, bruised
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Trim any excess fat or silver skin off the loin with a small sharp knife. (Alternatively, clean the rib bones well by scraping off the meat and sinew.) In a small bowl, mix together the olive oil, garlic, rosemary and thyme. Arrange the lamb in a glass baking dish and drizzle the oil-herb marinade over the meat, coating it well. Season the lamb with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.
Remove the lamb from the marinade and scrape off as many of the herbs as possible. Leave the loin in one piece. (Cut each rack into four equal pieces, two bones per chop.)
Heat a grill to medium-high. Grill the lamb until slightly charred on all sides and cooked to medium-rare (135–140 degrees on a meat thermometer; about 8–10 minutes for a loin or 3–5 minutes per side for chops). Let the meat stand for 5 minutes. Serve with either Tapenade butter or basil-mint pesto.
Tapenade Butter
Yield: 3/4 cup
1 tablespoons (3 ounces) unsalted butter, slightly softened
2 anchovy fillets
1 teaspoon coarsely chopped garlic
1/2 teaspoon chopped lemon zest
Pinch red pepper flakes
1/2 cup Niçoise or Kalamata olives, pitted and coarsely chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Place the butter, anchovies, garlic, lemon zest and pepper flakes in a food processor and process until smooth. Add the olives, salt and pepper. Pulse until well combined.
Scrape the mixture into a small bowl or ramekin. Smooth the top, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 1 hour. Let the butter sit at room temperature about 10 minutes before serving.
Basil-Mint Pesto
(It is best to use this pesto the day it is made; otherwise, the mint can oxidize and turn black.)
Yield: 1 cup
2 cups packed fresh basil leaves
1/2 cup packed fresh mint leaves
3 tablespoons pine nuts, lightly toasted
1 medium garlic clove, peeled
1 teaspoon honey
3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Place the basil, mint, pine nuts, garlic and honey in a blender or food processor fitted with a steel blade attachment. Chop coarsely; then gradually add the olive oil while the machine is running to make a thick purée. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Place the pesto in a small bowl or ramekin and cover the pesto surface flush with plastic wrap. Store in the refrigerator until ready to use. Remove the pesto from the refrigerator about 30 minutes before serving. Stir to incorporate any olive oil that has risen to the surface.
White Chocolate-Lavender Panna Cotta
Courtesy of Julia M. Usher
Yield: About five 1/2- to 3/4-cup servings
3 tablespoons cold water
2 teaspoons unflavored gelatin (less than 1 package)
2 cups heavy cream
1/2 cup whole milk
2 tablespoons plus teaspoon dried lavender buds (Provence variety)
Zest of orange, cut into long strips with a channel zester or paring knife
1/2 cup confectioners’ sugar
1 1/4 teaspoons finely minced orange zest (less than 1 orange)
4 ounces premium white chocolate, finely chopped and melted
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Garnish (optional):
Whipped cream
Fresh lavender sprigs (at least five)
Fresh orange twists (at least five)
Clean and dry five 8- to 10-ounce wine glasses or mason jars. Set aside.
Pour the cold water into a small bowl that fits a double boiler. Sprinkle the gelatin over the water and let the mixture sit 5 to 10 minutes until the gelatin is completely hydrated. Do not stir or the gelatin will form lumps. Set the bowl of gelatin over simmering water in the double boiler and melt over low heat. Remove the pan from the heat, but leave the melted gelatin over the warm water while you complete the panna cotta.
Combine the cream, milk, dried lavender and orange zest in a stainless-steel saucepan. Place the pan over medium heat and scald the cream. Remove from the heat and let the lavender and orange zest steep in the cream about 30 minutes.
Strain the cream mixture into a bowl to remove the lavender and orange zest. While the cream is still warm, whisk in the melted gelatin, confectioners’ sugar and remaining minced orange zest. Allow the mixture to cool completely at room temperature and then gently whisk in the melted white chocolate and vanilla extract. Cover the surface flush with plastic wrap to prevent a skin from forming and set the mixture in the refrigerator about 1 hour, or until it has slightly thickened. Remove the plastic and gently whisk to evenly distribute any orange zest that may have settled to the bottom.
Transfer the custard to a container with a pouring spout and divide it evenly among the reserved wine glasses or mason jars. Cover each glass tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate about 3 to 4 hours until the panna cotta has completely set. Note: Panna cotta is best eaten within a few hours of reaching this point.
Garnish each dessert with a dollop of whipped cream, a sprig of fresh lavender and/or an orange twist, as desired.
