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the front of historic brick buildings housing antique shops.
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an antique stove
By Stefene Russell
Photography by Frank Di Piazza
There are many roads that lead to Ste. Genevieve. You can shoot south on Highway 55 from St. Louis or meander down 67 then wind up to 55 via Highway B. The less direct path may better prepare you for a day in walkable, charming Ste. Gen. Park at the Ste. Genevieve Museum at Courthouse Square (DuBourg and Merchant), and you'll be within walking distance of nearly everything. For $2, you can visit the museum and educate yourself about the town's 250 years of history; Ste. Gen. boasts the highest concentration of preserved French colonial architecture in the country. The Felix Valle State Historic Site (Merchant and Second Street) is open year-round and offers public tours, plus special seasonal events. The Bolduc House (123 S. Main), built in 1770, is open April through October. The gift shop carries Quimper faience (hand-painted French pottery), books and French soaps and herbs.
Because Ste. Gen. has been continuously populated for centuries, you'll find unusual, often well-priced antiques in the local shops. Monia's Unlimited (316 Market) specializes in glass but also carries radios, toys and unusual collectibles. On our visit we found a black Dovewear pitcher and bowl ($250) and tiny, hand-colored glass slides once used to project advertisements between silent films ($2.99 each).
We spotted a tabby cat rolling on the warm sidewalk in front of Only Child Originals (176 N. Main) and couldn't resist going in. Proprietor Sam Conlon, originally from the Bay Area (and one-time world footbag champion), creates jewelry, barrettes and home and garden accessories from recycled materials, which vary in price depending on the size and materials but generally fall into the $30-$80 range. Across the street is Ivy and Twigs (199 N. Main). Wreaths and vintage furniture and clothing are arranged in vignettes that make this seem more like a dreamy surrealist museum than a store. If you want to travel light, consider Nouvelle votives ($5) in scents such as Mademoiselle and French Tulip; other items include handmade toile pillows ($30) and, on the high end, a handmade distressed wood-and-glass greenhouse ($800).
A trip to Ste. Genevieve isn't complete without a stop at the wineries (the Department of Agriculture recently named Ste. Gen. a viticulture area). Our favorite spot was the Charlesville Tasting Room off the Main Street Bed and Breakfast (221 N. Main). If you think Missouri wines are sweet, white and boring, a trip here will change your mind. Also stop by the Show-Me Shop (73 N. Main) for sausage or cheese from Oberle Meats (21529 Hwy 32), a family-run butcher shop that cures and prepares meat the old-fashioned way. Trust us on this one; we know a devotee who drives all the way from St. Louis for the bacon alone. After a day of antiquing and walking the streets of this still very French town, you'll find it hard to resist taking the scenic route back home—even if you arrived via the efficient, 60-minute drive on I-55.
