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Photograph by Suzy Gorman
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Photograph by Suzy Gorman
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Photograph by Suzy Gorman
Bill Donius
If you’re a fan of Casablanca, Havana might be as close as you get to walking into Rick’s Café Americain. Although the film takes place in 1942, modern-day Havana could serve as a backdrop, with many of the city’s buildings dating to the ’40s. It’s as if time has stood still for the past 50 years, since the beginning of the U.S. embargo against Cuba. Now, as the government prepares to open its doors to the U.S., you can feel the country making the transition.
Still, the 90-mile distance between the countries can seem like 9,000 miles because of the economic gap. (Doctors on the island, for example, earn about $40 per month.) But the low wages have failed to dampen the Cuban people’s spirits, and recent changes have allowed citizens to own and operate taxicabs, in-home restaurants, and craft businesses. Though most Cubans are well educated (education is free under the socialist regime) and value cultural expression, there’s a limited understanding of English; if you don’t speak Spanish, it’s best to travel with a group.
Warm smiles are as plentiful as vintage American cars. Both are good reasons to visit. Soak up the culture, and then soak up the rays at one of the beautiful beaches. You’ll quickly discover why Cuba was once a popular destination for Americans—and why it could be again soon.
Sightseeing
Tropicana Show: This outdoor musicalrevue has hosted performances every
night since 1939.
Habana Dance Company: Young performers demonstrate musical talent, using chairs
as percussion instruments.
National Museum of Fine Arts Cuban Collection: Peruse a range of Cuban art, including
political expression from different eras.
Old Havana’s Historic District: A walking tour takes you past six centuries of architecture.
Necrópolis Cristób al Colón:It’s a sight to behold, with above-ground crypts and 2 million graves.
Hemingway House: The writer spent nearly 30 years here, and Cubans came to accept him as one of their own.
Local Art Scene: There’s no shortage of studios and galleries to discover.
Dos and Dont's
DO:
- Take a lot of cash. Credit cards are not accepted. Plan on at least $200 to $300 per day for meals and souvenirs.
- Bring hand sanitizer. Even the best restaurants and hotels won’t have soap in public restrooms.
- Bring comfortable walking shoes.
- Bring pens or similarly inexpensive gifts for kids.
- Consider taking an antibiotic preventively.
DON'T:
- Rely on Airbnb.
- Overpack. Resort casual is the recommended dress.
- Eat indiscriminately. Instead, pick established restaurants, such as Vista a Mar, La Chucheria, Café Bohemia, Café Presidente, and El Atelier.
The former CEO of Pulaski Bank, Bill Donius teaches problem-solving skills, described in his book, Thought Revolution, to Fortune 500 companies.