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If you've not seen it, I urge you to check out Byron Kerman's essay "Whistling Past the Graveyard," which appears both on our site, and in our October issue; Byron also took about 250 photographs in the process of reporting the story, and we've posted them on our Flickr page, so check it out. Though it's been a burial ground since the days of Laclede and Chouteau, folks are still being buried there. That's how big Bellfontaine is! So if you have a certain monument you'd like to visit, whether it belongs to Captain Lewis or the author of Naked Lunch, you'll have a much less frustrating visit if you make a point to pull over at the visitor's center and grab a map. --Stefene Russell