In September, our style editor flew to the Big Apple, MacBook in hand
By Nicole Benoist Edgerton
Photograph by Mark Gilliland
I’m standing at 6th and 42nd in Manhattan, waiting in line for press credentials. This event certainly brings together a cast of characters. What began as a small showing of designers to a crowd that could fit in one room has become a full-on circus
(taking place in tents, no less), complete with high-paying sponsorships, massive security, an odd assortment of celebrities and plenty of attitude. In a matter of seconds, I see Barry Manilow pop out of an Escalade and a newly blonde Julianne Moore move through the crowd to a waiting Town Car.
Once inside the tents, it’s a flurry of energy. Publicists talk rapidly into headsets (“Everything’s under control!”). It is, after all, the most important 15 minutes of a designer’s season—buyers from around the world decide if they’ll carry a collection, and editors note what will (or won’t) be included in their photo shoots.
I scan the front row: high-powered stylists, moguls, fashion-obsessed stars. Vogue’s Anna Wintour is holding high court and looking impeccable. Martha Stewart, Diddy, Bernadette Peters, Demi Moore, Sarah Jessica Parker, Victoria Beckham, Robert De Niro—I told you it was an unusual bunch. Lights, music …
Ralph Lauren: I’m thrilled to see his collection is inspired by one of my favorite movies, My Fair Lady. Here’s a sexy and sophisticated Eliza Doolittle in glamorous dresses, hats and gloves fit for a day at the races. She’s even taking tips from Henry Higgins coming down the runway in a beautiful three-piece suit and top hat. This year marks Lauren’s 40th anniversary in business, and he’s celebrating with a candlelit garden party in the Central Park Conservatory following the show. Oh, I wish I had an invite to that affair!
Michael Kors: It’s sticky and hot today. Note to self: Take a cab next time, and don’t wear a wool dress with boots on the subway in this humidity (even if it is September in New York). I love Michael Kors’ take on the American woman. He’s based this collection on ads from the late ’70s and early ’80s for Virginia Slims and Charlie Girl. Well, this Charlie Girl
is beautiful and swathed in the colors of Palm Beach. Along with flowy dresses resembling an Impressionist painting, Kors sends tailored suits, loads of cashmere, safari jackets and navy and gold ensembles down the runway.
Calvin Klein: The line to get in is around the block, and it’s a half hour past showtime. Once inside: worth the wait. While most shows are ablaze with music and lighting, this one feels hushed. The clothes are second skins in shades of white, nude and gray with the rare splash of ocean blue. Halter dresses, tapered pants, fitted tops and jackets are lean, lean, lean and designed for the very tall and very thin.
Donna Karan: Karan designs for the woman on the go, and this show exemplifies it. The collection’s got a dreamy ’50s quality—think Julianne Moore in Far From Heaven—but it’s modern enough to work in a wardrobe of this day and age. Silhouettes are soft and cinched with wide belts; the hair and makeup’s unfussy and manageable, appropriate to go from the boardroom (albeit a chic one) to cocktails.
Diane von Furstenberg: Went to a great dinner at Pastis last night. The restaurant was overrun by the fashion crowd, most of whom I nod hello to this morning. I’m excited to see what von Furstenburg is showing this season. The Belgian princess who created the wrap dress in the ’70s has emerged as one of today’s top designers. Her theme this year is “Under the Volcano,” and boy, was it hot. The collection starts with dresses, full trousers and skirts in neutral colors and then bursts into color. This is for the woman who is always on holiday—or at least would like us to think she is.
Marc Jacobs: One of today’s most influential designers is showing his collection as he often does: two hours late. But as usual, his originality saves him. The show is backwards—his bow first, then the looks from finish to start. The clothes are sheer, beaded and sexy. The models look a little unhinged, even pushing deranged at times in pale makeup and back-combed bob hairstyles. Jacobs’ woman is a twist on brainiac meets vamp, and the clothes she wears fall somewhere in the middle.
Milly: It’s pouring. To see fashion’s elite in a storm (look: a 6-foot gazelle leaping a pothole in a single bound) makes me think it may be possible to do anything in 4-inch heels. Finally inside and dry, I realize I want to be a Milly girl every day. She’s clean and polished, with just the right amount of fun in her wardrobe. This collection is packed with chic dresses, über-flattering pencil skirts and beautiful day coats in black and white with splashes of green, citrus yellow and salmon … very Jackie O. in Capri circa 1970.
Mad dash to the airport to catch my flight. The NYC skyline in the window of the cab really is amazing, but I can’t wait to get home.
