Image of Carmel River Beach
Even the dogs are famous in Carmel-by-the-Sea.
By Michelle Salater
The fragrances of pastries and freshly brewed coffee waft down the block. By 6:15 a.m., the Buon Giorno Bakery and Café bustles, and a small group of locals, accompanied by their dogs, sip cappuccinos on the outdoor patio.
The vanilla lattes ease the morning chill as we stroll down Ocean Avenue toward the white sand beach, passing upscale boutiques, quaint Bavarian-style inns with sloped rooftops and cozy garden-fronted cottages.
Artists such as Jack London, Mary Austin and Henry Miller helped shape Carmel-by-the-Sea into the quaint European-village-in-California it is today. Photographer Ansel Adams was a native; Doris Day is a longtime resident; and Clint Eastwood was mayor from 1986 to 1988.
But Carmel isn’t just for movie stars and millionaires. Each year, thousands of visitors descend on the city to shop, spa, sightsee and dine on gourmet cuisine—and Carmel is regularly voted one of the top tourist destinations in the United States.
The village curves around that white sand beach, which is still untouched by commercial development. Carmel Beach is the place to dog-watch. Residents of Carmel love their pooches, and because there are no leash laws on the beach, it is the preferred spot for dogs to play in the waves.
Along Carmel Beach, numerous steep staircases lead you directly above the beach to the Scenic Road Walkway, on a bluff overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Pedestrians and motorists meander along Scenic Road for the breathtaking views, often stopping to watch spectacular sunsets over the ocean.
Carmel is a shopper’s delight. Whether Coach and Louis Vuitton pique your interest or you’re looking for a brooch made by a local artist, the town has something for you. Packed with hundreds of boutiques, jewelry stores and antique shops, as well as more than 90 studios and galleries, Carmel makes it possible to spend hours wandering its winding streets, exploring secluded courtyards and alleyways.
The white stucco Cypress Inn, Doris Day’s pet-friendly hotel, is one of the oldest spots in Carmel and probably the only lobby where you’ll be greeted by two Great Pyrenees and a pug. The inn is also home to Terry's, a sexy Moroccan-style tapas bar with live music, named after Day’s late son.
No trip to Carmel-by-the-Sea would be complete without a stop in Carmel Valley. Located in the Santa Lucia Range, Carmel Valley is home to many vineyards. The Château Julien Wine Estate is open daily for wine tastings and tours. Nestled in the hills above Carmel Valley, the Galante Vineyards offer tours and tastings by appointment only. However, you don’t have to drive to the winery to enjoy their wines. Stop by the Galante Vineyards Tasting Room in Carmel-by-the-Sea.
Along with dozens of wineries, the surrounding area offers the Big Sur coastline, Monterey Bay Aquarium and golf at Pebble Beach. Carmel-by-the-Sea is: 120 miles south of San Francisco; 70 miles south of San Jose; 26 miles north of Big Sur; five miles south of Monterey Bay.