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Image of Wat Arun temple in Thailand
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Image of Doi Phu Kha National Park in Thailand
By Adam Scott Williams
“Sa-wat-DEE ... sa-wat-DEE.” We repeat the greeting, palms pressed together, fingertips pointing skyward. With each “Hello, sa-wat-DEE,” we bob our heads a little, making a mild bow to the schoolchildren on the other side of the bamboo fence. They giggle, though uncertain of us. Perhaps my bearded face frightens them.
I kneel at the fence, looking into their brown eyes, smiling. I reach between the posts, palm down. Children dare each other to get within my reach. Two boys shove a smaller one, who collides with my hand and scowls at his betrayers. And then their collective epiphany: It’s safe to touch the bearded head-bobber. Now I can’t stop their little hands from squeezing mine—not that I want to. Their smiles seem limitless.
These children and their Hmong families live in the hills near the Thai-Lao border, in northern Thailand. NAN is a spectacular detour in this region, a tranquil village often unnoticed by tourists, yet just an hour’s flight from Bangkok (www.thaiair.com).
But first shake out the jet lag in Bangkok with visits to a few temples. Start at Wat Arun (Temple of the Dawn), then move on to the Grand Palace. There, you’ll find Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha) and Wat Pho, where the largest reclining Buddha in Thailand stretches half the length of a football field. These ornamental historic sights are accessible by way of the Chao Phraya River Express, the main public water transport, which slithers its way through the city of 9 million people. On board, you will glimpse the lives of Buddhist monks, Thai lovers, children and their mothers. Take a klong (canal) tour, trolling between the banks of stilt houses alongside floating knickknack saleswomen.
Novice monks, not even teenagers yet, jump from the treetops, plunging into the canal to swim. Then head north to Nan, where the pace is slow, the massages are lengthy ($3 for two hours) and the sightseeing is free of clustered tourists. Enjoy the Nan Guest House (www.nanguesthouseth.com), which offers romantic, simple accommodations within walking distance of smiling masseuses, an Internet café, temples and main avenues.
For dinner, try barbecue at Moo Gata, an outdoor do-it-yourself feast that costs 59 baht ($1.50). Hike beneath the jungle canopy of Doi Phu Kha National Park.
In Chiang Mai, the Wednesday street market runs deep and wide. Start at Pratu Tha Phae, the eastern gate of the city wall, and stroll where the energy takes you. You can always hail a tuk-tuk driver to chauffeur you home—or grab a taxi and check out the Lanna Muay Thai (www.lannamuaythai. com) boxing camp.
