By Christy Marshall
A quick quiz: Where did Adolphus Busch and family withdraw when the weather here turned sultry? Hint: It’s the hometown of the author of Last of the Mohicans and Abner Doubleday of baseball fame.
Cooperstown is a primo destination, but it’s tucked so deeply in the hills (and mountains) of upstate New York that just getting there can be a trip in and of itself. Still, the destination warrants the aggravation. Birthplace of the Susquehanna River, the town is lovely at any time of year and simply spectacular in the fall.
Situated on the southern shore of Lake Otsego, Cooperstown was established in the late 1700s by William Cooper and incorporated in 1812 with 133 houses, 57 barns and 686 residents. Today the population tops out at more than 2,000. But in late July, that stat soars as masses converge on the small town. Cooperstown is a mecca for baseball fans and players alike, when each year two players join the greats of the game as they are inducted into the National Baseball Hall of Fame.
Whenever you arrive, stop by the Hall of Fame Headquarters. For a small museum it’s unbeatable, especially after its recent $20 million renovation (by McCarthy of St. Louis). The exhibits are fascinating, the videos paired with poignant tunes, the trip through the eras of the national pastime a pure delight for—dare I say it?—even the nonbeliever. And the devotee will trek on over to Doubleday Field, still the site of the annual Hall of Fame game.
Walking along the streets of Cooperstown or, better yet, sitting on the porch of the historic Otesaga Hotel, you can imagine the days in the 1800s when the Busch family vacationed at their 200-acre estate. History is not remote here. The town is the headquarters for the New York State Historical Association. The Farmers' Museum, a 19th century village featuring interactive activities, special events and costumed docents, stands across the road from the Fenimore Art Museum, one of the country’s finest collections of American folk, fine and decorative art. Weathervanes, ship figureheads, cigar-store figures and decorated stoneware await you.
To step back into time, head north and visit Hyde Hall, a 50-room English manor complete with kitchen and servants’ wing, public rooms and paved courtyard. Or stay at the superb Inn at Cooperstown, a Second Empire mansion built in 1874 and designed by the architect of the Plaza Hotel in New York City.
North of Cooperstown stands the Alice Busch Opera Theatre, home of the acclaimed Glimmerglass Opera. For sport, there’s the Leatherstocking Golf Course, named in homage to James Fenimore Cooper. And as a town architecturally intact, Cooperstown ranks high. Grab a pamphlet from the visitor’s center and take the walking tour, passing by the Pomeroy Place (circa 1804) and Greencrest (circa 1873). When you return home, you can quiz others on captivating Cooperstown.
From St. Louis to Cooperstown: Fly into Albany or Syracuse, rent a car and start driving. If you prefer putting the pedal to the metal all the way, it's 985 miles, about a 15-hour drive.
