By Holly Fann
Photographs by Katherine Bish
On any given Sunday morning in St. Louis, you can feel that deep satisfaction that comes from starting the week with a superbly prepared brunch. Whether you crave strips of crisp bacon and fluffy eggs atop oysters or a Bloody Mary and a simple plate of chilled shrimp cocktail followed by a single bite of croquembouche, there are plenty of places you can go.
Duff's Restaurant
392 N. Euclid
314-361-0522
The skinny: A thoughtful array of ever-changing specials makes this a place where you could brunch every week and always leave feeling satisfied.
The spread: Tender and fragrant apple-ricotta pancakes are paired with house-made turkey apple sausages; French onion soup and steaming open-faced sandwiches satisfy lunchtime appetites; hot-fudge brownie sundaes are worth coveting.
The intangible: Worn-plank floors and exposed brick create a warm and embracing atmosphere.
Nadoz Café
3701 Lindell
314-446-6800
The skinny: Tables are filled with everything from whitefish in creamy rose-hued tomato sauces to crisp, downy waffles to be topped with fresh berries and cream, but the real focus here is on the baked goods and patisserie.
The spread: You’ll see petite flourless chocolate cakes with citrus custard; scones and muffins in every flavor imaginable, drizzled with white icing; flawless buttery brioche; cream puffs; elegant tortes and cheesecakes; and fresh-fruit tarts.
The intangible: The $20-per-person bill seems comically low, especially when you remember that your mimosa, coffee and juice are included.
City Diner
3139 S. Grand
314-772-6100
The skinny: More of a true breakfast-anytime establishment than an orthodox brunch place, the South City Diner (as longtime fans still know it) is perfect if you roll out of bed and don’t feel like bothering to look gloriously put-together.
The spread: A tender chicken-fried steak coated in crispy batter is accompanied by eggs, toast, bacon and a healthy serving of mashed potatoes and gravy; a meatloaf omelet is equal parts delicious and kitsch.
The intangible: The clientele and waitstaff are equally eclectic, but the real marvel here is the glistening short stack of pancakes, which overlap the rim of the plate.
Shangri-La Diner
2201 Cherokee
314-772-8308
The skinny: It’s vegetarian and smoke-free, so you can enjoy the frenzy of a diner without the pigs and cigs. (You’ll also start your day guilt-free, knowing that the remarkably satisfying dishes won’t include trans fats.)
The spread: Every Sunday the chef picks 10 items (seafood, vegetarian or vegan) for the brunch spread. Recent selections included a delicate salmon scramble, eggs Benedict with faux Canadian bacon, sweet and sticky crème brûlée French toast, a selection of seasonal grilled vegetables and vegetarian burgers.
The intangible: The mod, space-age bachelor-pad décor is as unpretentious as the staff is friendly at this endearing eatery.
Eau Bistro
212 N. Kingshighway
314-454-9000
The skinny: If elegant indulgence, quintessentially fine hotel ambience, personal omelet chefs and flawless puff pastries are what you seek, you can do no better than this.
The spread: You’ll find gleaming chafing dishes overloaded with stone crab claws, flawless made-to-order omelets, smoked and baked salmon and ethereal patisserie displays. The mimosas here are a must, and the Bloody Marys are exceptional.
The intangible: It seems busiest after morning Mass lets out, and a surprisingly large percentage of the clientele consists of families with children. Dress in your Sunday best, but don’t mistake the fine surroundings for stuffiness.
