Amigos Cantina
Roberto Trevino's rubber band–bound journal of Tex-Mex family recipes, sketches, ideas, and scribbled dreams all came together in April 2008 in Kirkwood. And in a salute to common sense and decency, Trevino paired each entrée with a complementary side dish. For that alone we say: Gracias, amigo. As to the perfectly mixed, perfectly potent margaritas? Muchas gracias ... y uno mas.
120 W. Jefferson, 314-821-0877, amigoskirkwood.com.
Araka
The tastemakers who flocked here upon its 2008 debut were slackjawed by its dramatic decor. Then they put their tongues back into their mouths and ordered. Then tongues wagged all over again at chef Mark Curran's equally bold, Mediterranean-inspired cuisine.
131 Carondelet Plaza, 314-725-6777, araka.com.
Cielo
Among the best restaurants in St. Louis. The setting's dramatic. The interior, sleek and sophisticated. From lobster risotto to braised lamb shanks, selecting dinner's harder than filling an inside straight in the casino downstairs. Superb wine selection—service is even better. And the Sky Terrace outside? You've heard about it—now go. 999 N. Second, 314-881-5800, fourseasons.com/stlouis/dining.html. Fountain on Locust The only place in town—and most likely the world—that can boast a "birdseed" salad, dill-pickle soup, ice-cream martinis, and "the world's smallest" hot-fudge sundae, and serves it all beneath a whimsical, 360-degree, hand-painted mural. Eclectic, you say? It's an edible fairy tale.
3037 Locust, 314-535-7800, fountainonlocust.com.
Fritanga
We didn't know how much this city was missing good, authentic Nicaraguan street food until Fritanga came along. And now we don't remember what life was like before its delicate empanadas, perfectly fried tilapia, and delicious pupusas. Now we hear they just added some Honduran items. We're on our way.
2208 S. Jefferson, 314-664-7777.
Oceano Bistro
The area's best seafood eatery. Invariably crowded, bright, and noisy, it's where fish fans gather for grilled scallops, sautéed sea bass, or pan-seared halibut. White wine–drenched mussels are classic. Expect imaginative combinations, subtle flavors, and extraordinarily fresh and tasty ingredients.
44 N. Brentwood, 314-721-9400, oceanobistro.com.
Onesto
The crust of a typical St. Louis pizza is "cracker-like." At Onesto, it's "upper." Organic flour and foodie toppings like shrimp, roasted peppers, caramelized onions, and house-made sauces are unsurpassed, as are the salads and nightly specials. Another winner from Vito Racanelli, the youngest of the three legendary brothers.
5401 Finkman, 314-802-8883, onestopizza.com.
Pappy's Smokehouse
It was love at first sight when we tucked into our first plate of dryrubbed ribs at Pappy's Smokehouse, where owner Mike Emerson's fanatical eye on freshness means a throng of disciples now packs the restaurant daily, hoping to score some before it all sells out.
3106 Olive, 314-535-4340, pappyssmokehouse.com.
Pi
When Pi opened last year, the question on everyone's mind was "What is San Francisco–style pizza?" Not two years later, we now know that the cornmeal-crusted, deep-dish pie is not only one of St. Louis' new favorite things, but also President Obama's.
6144 Delmar, 314-727-6633, restaurantpi.com.
Sage Urban American Grill
The tomato sauce–glazed meatloaf is diner good. The roasted turkey sandwich is Thanksgiving-leftover fine. Oddball offerings like a "Soulard Cubano" contrast with the sophistication of a crab- and asparagus-stuffed sole. A convivial place, Sage is lively and informal (and has the coolest staircase in any St. Louis restaurant), a neighborhood joint that doubles as a worthy dining destination.
1031 Lynch, 314-256-1203, sageinsoulard.com.
~scape
They cut costs by using only half a name—and pass the savings on to you! Duck confit, chicken schnitzel, and barbecue shrimp and grits, plus a plat du jour, make this graceful, attractive CWE spot worth several visits. Make one to the rear patio before the mercury starts dropping.
48 Maryland Plaza, 314-361-7227, scapestl.com.
SLeeK
Its rib-eye defines steak. Lavish presentations and a stylish atmosphere make SLeeK less casino dining–like, more formal dinner. Steaks, a rotating seafood selection, a superior oyster bar, and bright, delicious sides like fricasseed wild mushrooms are all ingredients that make this place a sure bet.
999 N. Second, 314-621-9590, sleeksteakhouse.com.
Edited by George Mahe