There are many kinds of beauty. There’s the majestic beauty of the sun rising over a mountain range, the quiet beauty of a wheat field under a cloudless sky, the harsh beauty of a windswept ice field. What you’ll find in Banff, situated in southwestern Alberta, Canada, is a stunning combination of the three—a beauty of almost fairy tale grandeur. Not on the main strip, which has been taken over by the things that have tainted many a beautiful destination—gift shops, inexpensive hotels and those dratted tourists—but a bit farther in. There, you’ll find the real star attraction, the Fairmont Banff Springs (403-762-2211, www.fairmont.com/banffsprings), a 117-year-old castle-like resort cradled in the crook of the surrounding mountains.
Banff offers a wide range of accommodations, but for thorough pleasure, the 770-room Banff Springs has no peer. It is one of the famous “railway” hotels built in remote locations along the Canadian Pacific Railway by William Cornelius Van Horne, who announced, “If we can’t export the scenery, we’ll import the tourists.”
Those tourists come in droves, and for good reason. The Banff Springs offers a 27-hole golf course; a variety of dining options, including wine and food tastings and afternoon tea; and the 38,000-square-foot Willow Stream Spa, fresh from a $2.3 million face-lift. Aside from the dozens of available spa treatments, be sure to try the Hungarian mineral pool, the outdoor whirlpool and the three waterfall pools—each a different temperature.
Banff is a great place for winter fun, including dogsled tours, snowmobiling, sleigh rides, ice walks and skiing. Once summer has turned Banff from a frozen fairyland to a lush landscape, you can hike one of the many area trails, heli-hike, ride a raft down the Bow River, horseback ride or tour the area on an all-terrain vehicle. No matter the season, there’s always plenty of wildlife to be seen in the 2,564-square-mile Banff National Park, the first national park in Canada and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
If it’s food that interests you, experience Canadian cuisine (yes, there is a Canadian cuisine, innovative and filled with fresh ingredients) at Buffalo Mountain Lodge (800-661-1367), Deer Lodge (800-661-1595) or the Maple Leaf Grille & Spirits (866-760-7680). The annual canadian wine and food festival, held 45 minutes from Banff every spring, includes wine tastings, cooking demonstrations and dinner events.
For culture, visit The Banff Centre (www.banffcentre.com), which hosts exhibits, events, performances and concerts year-round and the Banff Summer Arts Festival in July and August. Or explore the Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies (www.whyte.org), with its collection of art and artifacts and even heritage homes.