Photograph by Katherine Bish
Much to the dismay of those who fancy a big, fat steak paired with a massive, sour-creamed potato, we feel that "small plate" dining is here to stay—it's transcended "trend" and become a fullblown movement. For some, it's the new way to dine; for others, it's the only way. Yes, flavors are at the fore, but this is as much about experience as it is about the food: We have learned to share, sip, and perhaps try a tidbit of something a bit more ... edgy.
Herein, we highlight 15 standout items at St. Louis restaurants that embrace this concept—places where sharing is encouraged, where small plates outnumber traditional entrées, and, in most cases, where plates are served immediately after preparation, in defiance of traditional "course" etiquette. Trust us: Eating outside your comfort zone has never tasted this great.
Chilean Sea Bass
From Ice Kitchen $15
When we're not slugging it straight from the bottle with our pertsy in Lyublino, we like our vodka in places like this. (What brand? Imperia Russian. What else?) Icy, sipped alongside a plate holding a beautiful chunk of roasted sea bass atop a cake of rice; around it, a puddle of rice wine–infused broth and slivers of carrots and zucchini. The sake-marinated bass is almost sweet, the surface caramelized, the inside moist and flaky. Perfect match. 302 Westport Plaza, 314-542- 2000, myspace.com/icekitchen
Octopus, Calamari, and Shrimp
From Momos $6.95
Borrowing a page from many a Latin American menu (at Momos, gridskipping and gastrotheft are part of the Greek eatery's value system), this delightful dish melds the kick of citrus, the mellow touch of olive oil, and the velvety textures of three different sea creatures. We'll bet you haven't smiled this broadly since that last trip to Mykonos. 630 North & South, 314-863-3511
Nachos
From Erato on Main $5
With what seems like an endless supply of Southern-infused tricks at the ready, Erato chef Kevin Willmann continues to surprise us, turning an item that might seem a little ho-hum—nachos—into something extraordinary. He's replaced the soggy, gut-busting slog of corn chips and canned cheese with crisply fried sweet potatoes topped with the tangy one-two punch of blue cheese and a drizzle of red pepper ketchup ... and bacon. Frankly, we think bacon makes everything better, and when it's deliciously chewy, house-made bacon, we're totally sold. 126 N. Main, Edwardsville, Ill., 618-307-3203, eratoonmain.com
Portobello and Pancetta
From Big Sky Café $7.50
Those who have forgotten about Big Sky Café—now in its 18th year—must return to a table on the rear courtyard, a tree-covered wine garden of Eden as charming and secluded as any in the city. You'll not soon forget the portobello and pancetta with blue-cheese roasted tomatoes, perched precariously on a bias cut of baguette. It's a positively heavenly combination that's piled so high it no longer qualifies as bruschetta—it's darn near an open-face sandwich. 47 S. Old Orchard, 314-962-5757, allgreatrestaurants.com
Scallops on Risotto
From Robust $12
That generous, restaurant kitchen–sized spoonful of steamy, cheesy, sweet summer corn and red pepper risotto would have been quite lovely, thank you, when paired with a "Mellow" (Robust's clever nomenclature for pairing wines by flavor profile) Macon-Chardonnay. But when it's anchored by a pair of seared U-10 diver scallops (the big boys), well, even the uninitiated will understand why Robust is busting at the seams. 227 W. Lockwood, 314-963-0033, robustwinebar.com
Baked Brie (Saganaki-Style)
From Roxane $9
Perhaps the quintessential shared plate—a wedge of baked brie (who doesn't like brie?), with roasted pistachios and macerated figs, set afire tableside, saganaki-style, for a little added pow. At $9, it's the perfect starter at a perfect price ... and it's half that price during happy hour! Who says the best can't get better? 12 N. Meramec, 314-721-7700, roxaneonmeramec.com
Espresso-Smoked Ribs
From Mosaic $9.50
When Mosaic restaurant moved a stone's throw to the south, its business doubled, due as much to the revitalized menu as to its hot–corner–on–Washington Avenue address. Typifying Mosaic's fusion/tapas theme, it's items like the espresso-smoked ribs, meaty and complex, with a sweet, chai-like back note of cardamom and a bitter kimchi slaw to balance, that will give the new location staying power, long after the dilettante butterflies have flitted off to other colorful surroundings. 1001 Washington, 314-621-6001, mosaicrestaurants.com
Hummus
From Remy's $5.50
Remy's Kitchen & Wine Bar has been deftly defying hummus pitfalls since 1995. It's all about texture and balance: just enough tahini for richness, chopped garlic for pungency, and lemon for acidic punch. Factor in the sunken treasure of salty feta cheese and the pieces of unusually thin, nearperfect flatbread, and you'll see why many call this the "gold standard" of hummus. 222 S. Bemiston, 314-726-5757, remyskitchen.net
Plato de Embutidos
From Guido's
Pizzeria & Tapas $5.95
The restaurant is located on The Hill and named Guido's, so we can assume it's ... tapas? The décor is Italian, the owner is Spanish ... and here we go again. The full name is Guido's Pizzeria & Tapas— we call it "the restaurant with an identity crisis." Of 30 tapas-style dishes, the newest to the menu may just be the best: a grilled trio of Spanish sausages— one smoky, one spicy, one complex—with caramelized onions and balsamic tomatoes and served with—you guessed it—Italian bread. 5046 Shaw, 314-771-4900, guidosstl.com
Involtini di Melanzane
From Mazara $9
Slide an eggplant across a mandoline, and the result can be a slice of heaven, especially at Mazara, where thin slices of standard purple aubergine get pan-fried, then stuffed with Italian cheeses, bronzed pine nuts, and—get this—plumped white raisins. The simple addition elevates this Involtini di Melanzane so far above its plebian imitators you feel you must order it by name; "eggplant roll-up" just doesn't do it justice. 7923 Forsyth, 314-725- 3434, mazarastl.com
Jamón Ibérico
From Modesto $14
They gambol carefree in oak forests, pigging out on acorns and herbs, so that—when the time comes—their lean, muscular hams can be dried and aged. The results are just now becoming available outside Spain in a big way, at places like Modesto. A tapa-sized serving of these rosy, papery leaves of salty, smoky, utterly hammy joy, along with a good Rioja and some bread, is a transcendent experience. 5257 Shaw, 314-772-8272, modestotapas.com
Mustard-Crusted Tuna
From Boogaloo $8.95
Where to begin with this over-the-top, rococo dish of wonderment? Are we allowed to say that it's like a culinary ménage á trois? The cooling touches of a cucumber-and-mango salad make nice with the respective three- and five-alarm fires leaping from a mustard-and-horseradish mojo. Stuck in the middle are lovely slices of tuna, a protein that anchors with blushing sweetness. 7344 Manchester, 314-645-4803, boogaloostl.com
Crab Cakes
From Cyrano's $8.95
Older St. Louisans fondly recall Cyrano's absurdly rich desserts. But since its rebirth as a Webster Groves café, the place has become a destination for relaxed, intimate dining. It's more crab than cake here; the fine-grained breading adds flavor and binding but lets the briny, delicate taste and texture of the crab grab your palate. These patties are lightly browned, with a crunchy crust and moist interior. A zingy, mustardy rémoulade sauce is icing on the cake. 603 E. Lockwood, 314-963- 3232, cyranos.com
Beef Brochette With Horseradish Aioli
From BARcelona $7.25
Some tapas are to be adored for their adornments (see: Boogaloo's tuna to-do). Others we love for their straightforward simplicity—like this fine, tender cut of beef grilled on a skewer to pink-centered perfection. Slap on a seductive smear of spicy, horseradishspiked mayo, and you've got the makings of a timeless, classic morsel that, rightly so, has been on BARcelona's menu since day one. 34 N. Central, 314-863-9909, barcelonatapas.com
Gnudi
From Acero $12
With no fewer than five versions popping on and off menus around town, Italy's little-known gnudi (gnocchi's less sophisticated cousin) seems to have taken St. Louis dining by storm. The ricotta-rich balls of goodness are billowy soft and finished simply, with a light sauce of tangy tomatoes and a flavor-intense sprinkle of crispy, house-cured guanciale (a cured, unsmoked Italian bacon). "Like a ravioli without the filling," as one server put it. Acero was not able to sell gnudi as a menu item, but as a "permanent special"; with a little gnudge from the wait staff, it's become the No. 1 seller there. 7266 Manchester, 314-644-1790, acerostl.com
By Bill Burge, Dave Lowry, George Mahe, and Rose Martelli
