Photograph by Greg Rannells
There’s been a beverage explosion in St. Louis. First came the wine bars. Then craft breweries began to multiply like a hopped-up John Nash in A Beautiful Mind. Hand-crafted cocktails are now de rigueur, and coffee shops continue to sprout up. SLM asked the city’s experts for their favorites. Get ready to sip, sop, swig, and—sure, why not?—guzzle.
- Web Exclusive: Watch a video of Demun Oyster Bar's Chad Michael George and photog Steve Adams creating this month's cover drink
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COCKTAILS
Sanctuaria
A Great White Buffalo—bourbon and bitters, mixed with orange and lime juice. A Symphony 19—rum splashed into gin, with the caraway herbiness of kümmel. The bar’s stock is impressive: sweet, bloody red crème de cassis; quinine-smacked bonal; New Jersey applejack. It doesn’t hurt, either, that Sanctuaria has tapas like sautéed shrimp and tostones, as well as a bar manager possessed with pairing them with his cocktails. 4198 Manchester, 314-535-9700, sanctuariastl.com.
Taste
In case you haven’t watched Mad Men, cocktails are back—and Taste in the CWE is among the first to celebrate. A small but rewarding menu offers snacks like bacon deviled eggs and pork cracklins, as well as meals like fish and chips and a smoked pork burger. But the dim lighting is all on the cocktails. Taste arrays them by, well, taste. A Subtle Hustle—mixed with orangey Aperol, champagne, passion-fruit juice, and the cinnamon-citrus of Cocchi—is “Tart.” A Purgatory, made of rye, green chartreuse, and Benedictine, is labeled “Full & Robust.” “Classics” include a Manhattan Club and the iconic dry martini. An impressive command of the cocktail craft, a speak-easy atmosphere, and high-end ingredients make Taste the center of St. Louis’ mixed-drink revival. 4584 Laclede, 314-361-1200, nichestlouis.com.
Lola
Crown Royal and Chambord will be your fave—until you try the Dewar’s White Label and Dolin Vermouth. Oh, and then there’s that beautifully simple vodka with muddled limes. Stunningly good polenta fries and a wonderful lobster-stuffed crepe are among the eats at Lola that, along with live jazz, make for an evening of sophisticated mixed drinks. Overlook the occasionally awkward pretensions; Lola’s a great, underappreciated place for cocktails. 500 N. 14th, 314-621-7277, welovelola.com.
DeMun Oyster Bar
It boasts the coolest mosaic floor in town, a comfy bar—and oh yeah, oysters. Pacific beauties mostly: Kumamoto, Shigoku, briny Sister Points. (And an impeccable oyster poor-boy.) But what distinguishes this place is the attention paid to cocktails: Calvados, Benedictine, baked-apple bitters. Egg whites, ginger-flavored Scotch. And Negronis. The bar works spirits into poured potions that make this relatively new place a standout, one that’s open scandalously late. 740 DeMun, 314-725-0322.
Eclipse
We didn’t get the flying cars. Otherwise, all of the Jetsonian glories of the Space Age are captured at Eclipse, which not coincidentally is a
stellar (get it?) cocktail destination. Consider: a Golden Summer of gin, Galliano, allspice dram, syrup, and lemon. A lime vodka–and–
cava Kaffir Cooler. A bourbon, Benedictine, and espresso-bean concoction, the Americano 43, blended with fruity Licor 43 and bitters—a perfect after-dinner drink. And blending ginger beer with tequila, vermouth, and grenadine? That’s one small step for mixology, one giant leap for cocktail culture. 6177 Delmar, 314-726-2222, eclipsestlouis.com.
HIGHBALLS ON THE DOWN-LOW
Where to tipple VIP potables and sip clandestine cocktails
Thaxton Speakeasy
A bona fide, weekends-only speak-easy accessed by a side alley. Anyone who finds the place gets in—but those who know the password (check the website) enjoy a reduced door charge. 1009 Olive, 314-241-3279, thaxtonspeakeasy.com.
Members Only at Sanctuaria
A $20 lifetime membership nets reduced-price cocktails and a Moleskine notebook. Once you’ve partaken of every potation (all 140ish of them), your third drink is on the house—for life. 4198 Manchester, 314-535-9700, sanctuariastl.com.
Cocktail Museum Sundays at The Royale
In-the-know imbibers flock here on Sunday nights, when barkeep Robert Griffin presents an ever-changing slate of pre-Prohibition cocktails. Expect sours, fizzes, punches, and convivial cocktailers dorking out. 3132 S. Kingshighway, 314-772-3600, theroyale.com.
Downstairs at Brennan’s
The CWE scenesters (and smokers) are upstairs at Maryland House, but a subterranean lounge with about 20 Scotches awaits in the cellar, accessed by a door behind the cigar shop’s register. 4659 Maryland, 314-361-9444.
WINE
The Wine Press
We’re not sure why it’s the most obscure wine bar in town, but it is. It’s not because of the selection—68 wines by the glass and 35 beers—nor the live music and sidewalk tables within earshot. Maybe it’s because the sign just went up…after two and a half years in business. 4436 Olive, 314-289-9463, stlwinepress.com.
Vino Nadoz
Restaurant success or failure boils down to the details: design, menu creativity/presentation, proper staffing, and appropriate lighting and sound dampening. Few concepts earn unanimous check marks, but Vino Nadoz gets dangerously close. This eclectic mix of reclaimed, rustic, and radical includes the return to St. Louis of chef Cathy “Crash” Schmidt, who’s been dazzling diners with the likes of polenta “cupcakes” and a steak-and-egg Caesar. Welcome back, Crash. We needed the jolt. 16 The Boulevard–St. Louis, 314-726-0400, vinonadoz.com.
Via Vino Enoteca
All dressed up in black, white, and elegant beige, and calling itself an enoteca with global cuisine, Via Vino might appear to be a bit overwrought, even for Frontenac, but it isn’t. It matches the area like a jacket over jeans, the epitome of comfy/classic, as evidenced by the half roasted chicken with bacon, white beans, and haricot vert cassoulet. A magnet for diners young and old, Via Vino is either new or timeless, just like a Sophia Loren flick—albeit with a louder soundtrack. 10425 Clayton, 314-569-0405, viaviavino.com.
Cork
It’s fun when clever collides with utilitarian—when tap water is served in cork-stoppered wine bottles, wine racks are made from galvanized pipe and wood planks, and the chandelier gives new life to old wine bottles. Thirty temp-controlled wines by the glass here are paired with good food, like pizza with grilled asparagus and EBLT sliders (the E is for egg). And it’s all captained by a young owner who’s as friendly on accident as you wish you were on purpose. 423 S. Florissant, 314-521-9463, corkwinebarstl.com.
One 19 North
Archways—stone, faux stone, rugged plaster, even arches within arches—are a motif. Whether it’s the cozy vibe, two-score wines by the glass, or small-plate winners like pancetta-wrapped and oven-roasted shrimp, One 19 is busier than Dent Devil’s phones during a hailstorm—which might be the only time to even consider trying for a table without a reservation. 119 N. Kirkwood, 314-821-4119, one19north.com.
WINE BAR FORGET-ME-NOTS
Balaban’s Wine Cellar & Tapas Bar
Its classic dishes are now small plates; its stellar wines are racked up and ready to take home. 1772 Clarkson, 636-449-6700, balabanswine.com.
33 Wine Shop & Tasting Bar
No sign, no ads, no shortage of excellent wines—and all cool. 1913 Park, 314-231-9463, 33wine.com.
Robust
It grouped wines by flavor profile, so many former chardonnay fans are now drinking anything but. 227 W. Lockwood, 314-963-0033, robustwinebar.com.
Sasha’s Wine Bar
One of our first so-named “wine bars,” it’s also known for its patio. 706 DeMun, 314-863-7274, sashaswinebar.com.
BREWS
Kirkwood Highlands Brewing Company
Highlands is the sole brewer in a historic area that feels like it should have more. Brewmaster Dave Johnson is on the cusp of creating great beers, like the IPA and the Dopplebock. Chef Jack MacMurray also has rewritten Highlands’ menu, which gives you two reasons to go. And free parking makes three.105 E. Jefferson, 314-966-2739, highlandsbrewing.com.
Six Row Brewing Company
Founded in December 2009, Six Row is located in a building originally used by Falstaff Brewing. Carrying on the local brewing tradition, head brewer Evan Hiatt has produced some fantastic beers, including the Double IPA, Strong Porter, and popular Kolsch. 3690 Forest Park, 314-531-5600, sixrowbrewco.com.
Buffalo Brewing Co.
In the heart of midtown, Buffalo Brewing maintains an innovative edge with its spicy Chili Beer and one-off creations like the Swan Song Belgian-American Rye IPA. The alfresco seating also provides a perfect spot for summer. 3100 Olive, 314-534-2337, buffalobrewingstl.com.
Urban Chestnut Brewing Company
All new businesses start with a dream, and the dream of every brewer is to open a brewery. Florian Kuplent used to brew at Anheuser-Busch, until he and now-partner David Wolfe left to open Urban Chestnut (above) in midtown. There, they produce two lines: the Reverence series, which explores traditional brewing styles, and the Revolution series, which pushes the boundaries of what beer can be. 3229 Washington, 314-222-0143, urbanchestnut.com.
Ferguson Brewing Company
There was a time in St. Louis’ past when you couldn’t drink more locally than the brewery down the street. In North County, Ferguson Brewing is helping revive that tradition. With its St. Louis Pale Ale, Classic American Pilsner, and Belgian White, there’s a style for every taste profile. 418 S. Florissant, 314-521-2220, hillbrewingco.com.
BREWERY FORGET-ME-NOTS
Schlafly Tap Room
Tom Schlafly and company are a big reason St. Louis is experiencing a beer renaissance. Twenty years young, the Tap Room remains one of the city’s finest brewpubs. 2100 Locust, 314-241-2337, schlafly.com.
Morgan Street Brewery
Morgan Street has tweaked its recipes to boast St. Louis’ best lagers—its Golden Pilsner won gold at the Great American Beer Festival and the World Beer Cup. 721 N. Second, 314-231-9970, morganstreetbrewery.com.
O’Fallon Brewery
Unlike many breweries, O’Fallon Brewery succeeded without a brewpub, creating Wheach and 5-Day IPA, two of the region’s most popular beers. 26 W. Industrial, O’Fallon, Mo., 636-474-2337, ofallonbrewery.com.
ON THE MENU
Coming this year...
Perennial Artisan Ales
Phil Wymore plans to use what he learned at Half Acre Beer to brew up innovative beers near Carondelet Park. (Projected opening: May)
Exit 6 Pub and Brewery
This nanobrewery will only make a 31-gallon barrel of beer at a time, which allows for experimentation—but blink, and that beer could be gone. (Projected opening: mid-June)
The Civil Life Brewing Co.
When he owned 33 Wine Bar, Jake Hafner tried the world’s finest beers. He and brewer Dylan Mosley plan to emulate those that will translate into “session” beers. (Projected opening: late June)
4 Hands Brewing Company
Located in LaSalle Park, 4 Hands is planning to use a 12,000-square-foot space to make and distribute four year-round beers and a number of seasonals. (Projected opening: July)
BEER-CENTRIC RESTAURANTS
International Tap House
Not only does the flagship location boast the area’s biggest beer selection (500 and counting), it’s also held some memorable events: a Hoosier Halloween with mullets and Southern rock, as well as the iTap Prom, with a DJ and guys in puffy-shirt tuxes. 161 Long, 636-537-8787; 1711 S. Ninth, 314-621-4333; internationaltaphouse.com.
Bridge
With its warm atmosphere and lengthy drink list, Bridge is unlike any other beer destination in St. Louis. Featuring more than 55 drafts, it has one of the city’s largest tap selections. And as with all of Dave Bailey’s restaurants, this tap house and wine bar has a major focus on “local.” Like that beer you’re drinking? Ask for a growler to go. 1004 Locust, 314-241-8141, thebridgestl.com.
Bigelo’s Bistro
Over the past decade, Bigelo’s has quietly assembled an eclectic beer selection and delicious lunch menu in downtown Edwardsville. Co-owner Mark Pruitt also hosts one of the town’s best monthly beer dinners; act fast, though, as the dinners fill faster than a pilsner shooter glass. 140 N. Main, Edwardsville, Ill., 618-655-1471, bigelosbistro.com.
The Good Pie
If beer and pizza is the typical college dinner, then beer and pizza at The Good Pie is a Ph.D.–level experience. Owner Mike Randolph is a self-confessed beer geek, so there’s an ever-changing selection of drafts and an unusual bottle selection. And with the restaurant’s thousand-degree wood-fired oven, your pizza’s often served by the time you’ve decided which beer to pair it with. 3137 Olive, 314-289-9391, thegoodpie.com.
The Stable
Housed in the former Lemp Brewery stables, The Stable is a cathedral to St. Louis’ storied brewing history. Choose from 36 different (and continually rotating) drafts or several house-brewed Amalgamated craft beers. Not surprisingly, the emphasis here is on German-style beers, with excellent creations like the Helles (a light but malty lager) and the Zoigl (a lager historically brewed in Bavarian town squares). 1821 Cherokee, 314-771-8500, thestablestl.com.
DRINKS 101
Kaldi’s Roasting and Barista Education Center
First, attend a coffee “cupping.” Then check out one or all of the nine classes, the same that Kaldi’s baristas must attend. 888-892-6333, kaldiscoffee.com.
Cicero’s Beer School
Far more informative than a brewery tour, CBS is the preeminent beer school in town. 314-862-0009, cicerosbeerschool.com.
Proof Academy
Learn about beer, wine, and cocktails in classes that are taught by the city’s foremost drink aficionados. 314-229-2825, proofacademy.com.
COFFEE
Foundation Grounds
Foundation Grounds serves as a beacon at one end of Maplewood’s revitalized Manchester Road. With an organic atmosphere that draws people in for the equally organic Goshen coffee, there’s no mistaking the good juju—you’ll feel like you belong before your first refill. 7298 Manchester, 314-601-3588, foundationgrounds.com.
The Mud House
Few shops rival The Mud House’s community vibe. Whether you’re curled up on the couch or gobbling a grass-fed burger from chef Chris Bork’s local-oriented menu, you can tell this is a venue lovingly adopted by its South City neighbors. 2101 Cherokee, 314-776-6599, mudhouse.com.
Picasso’s Coffee House
Drive west to discover one of the area’s best coffee shops in the heart of St. Charles. There, nestled between historic Main Street’s antique shops, you’ll find Picasso’s talented baristas delivering some of the region’s finest milk-based drinks. 101 N. Main, St. Charles, 636-925-2577, picassoscoffeehouse.com.
Shaw’s Coffee
This bank-turned-coffee shop brings a flavor of the Northwest to The Hill. Its antique German roaster is impressive, but it’s another impressive feature that serves as the perfect sitting area: a walk-in vault housing a comfy chair, perfect for an afternoon of reading. 5147 Shaw, 314-771-6920, shawscoffee.com.
Foam Coffee & Beer
By day, this funky café anchors hip Cherokee Street, fueling its minions with shots of Northwest Coffee. But at night, things really get kicking, when the shop starts pouring cold Schlafly to enjoy with your favorite local bands. 3359 S. Jefferson, 314-772-2100, foamstl.com.
COFFEE FORGET-ME-NOTS
Kaldi’s Coffee
Before coffee hit its third wave (the dawn of the barista), there was Kaldi’s—the chain that raised the bar in St. Louis, especially at its Clayton location. 187 Carondelet Plaza, 314-726-2900, kaldiscoffee.com.
Northwest Coffee Roasting Company
Roasting small batches twice a week since 2003, Northwest continues to brew the freshest coffee in St. Louis. 4251 Laclede, 314-371-4600, northwestcoffee.com.
Goshen Coffee
Goshen, located within 222 Artisan Bakery, is the area’s only 100 percent–organic roaster, and its signature Bona Fide blend is now a local staple. 222 Main, Edwardsville, Ill., 618-659-1122, goshencoffee.com.
JUST ADD HALF & HALF
While we’re confident the food (half breakfast, half lunch) will be first-rate at Half & Half—the new venture from The Good Pie’s Mike Randolph—it’s the “coffee program” that has Randolph most excited. Former Kaldi’s star barista Mike Marquard is shepherding the project, which will include espresso, lattés, and three forms of drip brewing from which customers can choose: the Beehouse (now Zero Japan) pour-over, the Chemex carafe, or the Aeropress.
By Bill Burge, Chris Hoel, Byron Kerman, Rose Maura Lorre, Dave Lowry, George Mahe, and Mike Sweeney
