By Ann Lemons
Who would have thought chicken wings would become an American classic? But it’s true: Their fabulous messiness, their wonderful mixture of crispy-chewy-tender and their sizzle have come to stay. It’s especially amazing in St. Louis, where fiery-hot foods are mostly regarded with horror. Probably more than any other single dish, wings are responsible for increasing the heat tolerance of the Midwestern palate, a strange gift to come from Buffalo, where they were created in the now-renowned Anchor Bar.
I admit, I love them. But I have some rules. First and foremost, the wings must not be breaded or battered. The sauce immediately ruins any crispiness, and the coating just gets in the way. Also, scrawny wings just don’t fly with me. And finally, restaurants should be honest about the degree of spiciness. Labeling them “screaming death wings” when they are only medium hot is silly. All of the restaurants we chose have multiple locations, and the overall quality was surprisingly high. Interestingly, the hotness was almost identical.
Culpeppers
300 N. Euclid
314-361-2828 and others
The first St. Louis bar and restaurant to become known for its wings, Culpeppers still sports a distinctive aroma of vinegar, leading me to think the original formula of Tabasco and margarine hasn’t been messed with. The wings are large enough, although portions have shrunk. Carefully cooked so they’re done but not dry. Does that sauce give them an edge? Yes.
Krieger’s Pub & Grill
1684 Clarkson
636-530-9665 and others
Large, juicy wings that are well-seasoned with just enough pungent sauce to cling but not drip. They maintain their crispy bits very nicely, an important component of the texture that makes wings so generally addictive. An excellent wing.
Syberg’s
7802 Gravois
314-832-3560 and others
Another batch of large, moist wings, slightly less fiery than the others. Additional points for the “house wings,” which sport a sharp mustard sauce, only slightly sweet, one of the few good alternatives to Buffalo-style wings I’ve found anywhere.
Mike Duffy’s Pub & Grill
6662 Clayton
314-644-3700 and others
Smaller and slightly drier than the others in this group, these wings nevertheless sport a tasty sauce delivered in just enough quantity to envelop them without leaving a pool in the bottom of the bowl.
