Photographs by Kevin A. Roberts
Years ago, I would comb the racks at the Salvation Army in the hope of finding a secondhand gem. My efforts often produced disappointing results: beat-up jeans (which were a brief blip in my style history) and plaid shirts (which I wish I’d held onto). These days, secondhand and vintage clothing boutiques are in their heyday. People from all economic backgrounds are searching the racks for barely worn Prada hanging next to everyday cargo pants. St. Louisans now can browse well-stocked secondhand shops from downtown to South County.
Before setting foot in such stores, one should note a key distinction: While all vintage is secondhand, not all secondhand is vintage. (A good rule of thumb is that vintage is at least 25 years old.)
Asked for his take on the subject, fashion guru Cameron Silver of L.A.’s Decades boutique explains, “When I refer to vintage, I think of clothing that has design provenance and is collectible. Secondhand clothing may not be as valuable or as expensive, but is still used clothing from the past. For example, a store like Decades sells vintage clothing mostly by important 20th-century designers or with significant design attributes. A secondhand clothing store isn’t as edited and may have gems, but is also filled with more disposable used clothing of varied quality.” That in mind, I set out to explore some of St. Louis’ first-class secondhand stores.
I began with one of my favorites, Women’s Closet Exchange (11575 Gravois, 314-842-8405, womensclosetexchange.net), where I’ve found deals on Yves Saint Laurent, Chloé, and Prada in the past. Every week, there’s something new—one reason I love shopping secondhand. Owner Sue McCarthy offers a stunning Ralph Lauren Collection striped gown with a train for $249 and Alberta Ferretti and Roberto Cavalli for less than $200. Then there are the accessories: an ample selection of Chanel, Gucci, and Botkier. (I found a beautiful nude-colored Botkier handbag for $199.) McCarthy’s frequent trips across the country help maintain a wide selection. And when you’re over what’s in your own closet, you can sell to the store for cash or store credit.
My second stop was Rung (9739 Manchester, 314-918-0575, shoprung.org), a nonprofit resale shop that donates all proceeds to support the Women’s Foundation of Greater Saint Louis. The lofty space in Rock Hill has a nice mix of clothing and accessories. I spotted a pink Christian Dior suit ($90), a Valentino faux snow-leopard jacket ($175), and a gorgeous Siman Tu necklace at 75 percent off retail. It’s hard not to feel good about shopping here, when the store’s mantra reads like a note from Mother Teresa: “Bring a bag and leave with one. The path to success is a two-way street.”
My final stop was Borough Vintage (447 N. Euclid, 314-881-9869, boroughvintage.com), a boutique nestled in the Central West End. Owner Dawna Sturdivant is the poster child for vintage as it should be worn (she was recently named to SLM’s annual Best Dressed List). To clarify that the shop is strictly vintage, she notes, “I stop at the 1980s.” The store is loaded with vintage finds: a gorgeous ’50s black wool off-the-shoulder dress ($128), an ’80s graffiti swirl dress ($48), and a ’60s cream beaver bomber jacket ($218), which Sturdivant pairs with a ’50s cashmere sweater ($78), ’70s umbrella-pleat skirt ($58), and linen belt ($28). There’s something special about fashion with a history; I try to envision what the previous owner said, did, and accomplished in what is now mine. And—who knows?—maybe I’ll make fashion history, too, someday.
