By Jennifer Silverberg
Blue Crab & Goat Cheese Arancini
Bocci Bar
Tired of eating the same old balls of rice? Bocci Bar’s special blends in the mild tanginess of goat cheese and seafood sweetness of crab, then sets them swimming in a pool of tomato-basil sauce. When available, this makes for a fine update of an Italian classic. 16 N. Central, 314-932-1040, boccibar.com.
Meatballs al Forno
Cucina Pazzo
Three meatballs—somewhere between the size of golf balls and racquetballs—arrive topped with fontina, sprinkled with fresh basil, and served on a bed of polenta. They’re one of the most popular items at sister restaurant The Tavern in Valley Park. So when chef Justin Haifley and his business partners opened Cucina Pazzo in the Central West End, it was a no-brainer to bring them along. 392 N. Euclid, 314-696-8400, cucinapazzostl.com.
Red Wine–Braised Short Ribs
I Fratellini
Especially during the colder months, I Fratellini’s rendition of short ribs is ideal comfort food, the juices of the tender but still firm beef spilling into a bed of creamy polenta, with roasted Brussels sprouts on the side. 7624 Wydown, 314-727-7901, ifratellini.com.
Flash-Fried Escarole
Frank Papa’s Ristorante
Flash-fried spinach—which has a papery texture that disintegrates in your mouth—is a longtime staple of many local Italian restaurants. Frank Papa’s riff on this ingredient enlists escarole, which takes on a lighter color and a subtle bitter flavor while holding the textural joy of the original. 2241 S. Brentwood, 314-961-3344, frankpapas.com.
Filetto Ripieno
Roberto’s Trattoria
The stuffed beef filet at Roberto’s Trattoria is a frequent off-menu special: a tall, 9-ounce cut of tenderloin stuffed with a mixture of mild blue cheese, fontinella cheese, and salami. Those who find filets to be a relatively bland cut will be pleasantly surprised by the additional flavors. 145 Concord Plaza, 314-842-9998, robertosstl.com.
Hanger Steak
Trattoria Marcella
Marcella was one of the first restaurants in town to put hanger steak—a full-flavored cut, something like tenderloin’s Mini-Me—on its full-time menu. A balsamic marinade gives it an Italian accent, with appropriate complementary flavor. 3600 Watson, 314-352-7706, trattoriamarcella.com.
