Photograph by Katherine Bish
In this country, many people like a beer with their pizza. Not so in Italy. The birthplace of pizza prefers to pair it with wine; here, we often describe some wines as “pizza wines,” an almost-apologetic moniker that’s an insult to both wine and pizza. Pizza is not a pedestrian food anymore, especially with the proliferation of specialty pizzas and gourmet ingredients.
Pizzas should be treated just like other food; depending on its composition and ingredients, any wine may be appropriate. Generally, a thin-crust pizza works best with a lighter wine, while a thick-crust pie supports a heavier style with more body and tannins.
Across the board, I prefer a wine with good (high) acidity, light to medium body, an underlying note of fresh herbs, and hints of smoked or cured meats and dried fruits—just like you find in, well, Italian wine.
Here are some wine varietals that would best complement your favorite style of pizza.
New York Style
These pizzas are known for their chewy dough and higher-fat, whole-milk (read: greasier) mozzarella, for which the wine must compensate. Whites: Friulian white blends of Friulano Bianco, pinot grigio, pinot bianco, sauvignon blanc, and Ribolla Gialla. Reds: Traditional styles from Italy’s Piedmont (like Barbera and Nebbiolo) that are light in body and color.
Chicago Style
Since the deep-dish style often requires using a knife and fork, I say follow through by breaking out the good stemware! Whites: Look for more oak-influenced wines from Tuscany, like chardonnay and Verdicchio. Reds: Consider heartier-style reds with medium tannins, like Chianti and Valpolicella. If the pizza contains significant sausage, up the ante with robust wines like Vino Nobile, Brunello, and Barolo.
California Style
Considering the wide array of nontraditional toppings, you might be tempted to consider a California wine. Here, let the toppings guide the pairing, as the crust and fat content are minimal at best. Whites: Try the trendy wines made from Grüner Veltliner and off-dry Riesling, or look for Italian whites from Veneto, and Müller-Thurgau and Traminer from Collio. Reds: Sonoma Coast pinot noir and cabernet franc from Napa Valley are good choices; for Italian, your best choice is an aged “Super Tuscan,” found in many regions.
Thin Crust
Characterized by a cracker-like texture, little to no sauce, and very little cheese (yes, there are local exceptions), these pizzas tend to be on the lighter side and are often served as appetizers. Whites: Look to lighter varietals like Vernaccia, Cortese, and Vermentino. Reds: Delicate wines from pinot nero (a.k.a. pinot noir) grapes and Montepulciano d’Abruzzo are most appropriate.
