By Stefene Russell
When the original Atomic Cowboy opened in Maplewood in 2002, it was pretty cool: a coffee shop–art lounge–retro-furniture store that served Cuban sandwiches during the day, hosted DJ spins at night and—gasp!—catered to nonsmokers, unheard of in St. Louis.
Atomic Cowboy's new location in Forest Park East has the same eclectic urban vibe, but on a much grander scale.
The exterior sports a mural of a '50s pinup cowgirl riding a rocket, a winking reference to the source of the club's name (Slim Pickens' glorious exit scene in Stanley Kubrick's Cold War masterpiece, Dr. Strangelove).
Inside, it's like two clubs in one, with a bar and open kitchen on one side and an "art lounge" on the other, a conceptual carryover from the Maplewood location. Vinyl '60s couches and white mod chairs are arranged living room–style, local artists' work hangs on the walls and vintage lounge or Brazilian pop plays on the PA until 9 or 10 p.m., when a DJ takes to the turntables.
The bar space is simple, but carefully chosen details (such as the multitiered light fixtures on the ceiling, which somehow seem both Art Deco and Star Trek) create an atmosphere that feels done but not uncomfortably so. The open kitchen, where the chef dishes up excellent Tex-Mex on brightly colored ceramic plates, is a clever touch. (Check back soon for a carryout window.)
Overall, the vibe is young and urban, yet the crowd's diverse: You'll see as many bald spots as trendy haircuts. The club's still smoke-free, and teetotalers should note that desserts and specialty coffees are served with the same seriousness as the liquor.
Smokers are welcome on the patio, though the word "patio" hardly does justice to the club's outdoor space, which makes clever use of a half-Quonset hut furnished with wooden tables and equipped with a bar.
And there may be more to come: The night we stopped by, silhouettes could be seen in the upper windows, and it looked for all the world as if they were carrying plywood and buckets of drywall plaster. On the same night (a Thursday), a normally deserted Manchester was parked up for blocks. Atomic Cowboy may be needing that extra space, and soon.
4140 Manchester, 314-775-0775, www.atomic-cowboy.com, 5 p.m.-1:30 a.m. Wed-Sat, with 3 a.m. hours coming soon
