Photograph by Kevin A. Roberts
Mathew’s Kitchen
5624 Hampton
St. Louis Hills
314-351-1700
Dinner only, Mon–Sat
Average Main Course: $15
Dress: Jeans to jackets
Reservations: Yes, don’t risk it—especially on weekends.
Chef: Mathew Unger
The slogan at Mathew’s Kitchen reads “Comfort food with a twist.” Deliberate or not, the restaurant follows in the tradition of a St. Louis great: Richard Perry’s Jefferson Avenue Boarding House. (Unlike the Boarding House, however, the restaurant offers lighter entrées, including sandwiches.) The bulk of the menu comprises granny food, writ large.
In keeping with Granny’s rules, seconds on the daily soup special are on the house. (The only reason we didn’t have more of the rich New England clam chowder was to leave room for what was to come.) Grilled Caesar salad might be unusual in south St. Louis, but the grilled romaine hearts provide a change of texture and an added layer of flavor. The Not Pizza appetizer is a crisp flatbread topped with caramelized onions, roasted tomatoes, and feta cheese, drizzled with a balsamic vinegar reduction—perfect for sharing.
A test for any kitchen, meatloaf arrives in large pieces wrapped with bacon and grilled, topped with a St. Louis–style barbecue sauce. Coarsely ground and not overly padded with bread crumbs, the dish is elevated by smoky bacon and a tingle from the sauce. Beef stroganoff includes a rich mixture of mushrooms, lean but tender beef, and ruddy gravy with notes of sour cream and paprika—all served over linguine-like egg noodles. Owner-chef Mathew Unger came by to offer ground pepper, saying he’d cut back on it recently because of guest comments, though he liked the dish with some spice. (He was right.)
Wednesday is fried-chicken night. Three large pieces arrived with mashed potatoes, a bacon gravy, the vegetable of the day (green beans with bacon and onion on this visit), and a cheddar biscuit. The chicken’s batter was so crisp that the last piece remained so even after a night in our refrigerator. And while the batter did need some seasoning, the bird itself was moist and juicy. First-rate mashed potatoes and bacon gravy—served with both the fried chicken and the meatloaf—are fine indeed. Unfortunately, the accompanying biscuit was dried-out and served without butter or jam.
Apple strudel is a logical follow-up to Grandma’s stroganoff; the crisp pastry and tart apple chunks are delicious. The blueberry bread pudding, however, seemed unseasoned, the blueberries scattered across the square of pudding. If not for the vanilla ice cream, the dessert would have lain there sullenly.
The wine list offers a range of prices and styles: A rich Santa Barbara Syrah from Jim Dierberg’s Three Saints Vineyard was available by the glass—a fine companion to the beef dishes.
The atmosphere is nice-casual, with a simple black-and-white theme, and service was crisp. True to Granny’s house, Mathew’s Kitchen is a solid—if somewhat safe—choice for folks who want something for both Uncle Herb and the Gen-Y godchild.
The Bottom Line: Slightly modern comfort food in an appropriately casual atmosphere.
By Joe and Ann Pollack
