Photograph by Katherine Bish
Twenty years ago, people thought Bill Cardwell was crazy when he built a high-end restaurant in Clayton, where the mantra was "Uh, we all leave at 5." In 1982 they said, "Who would go to Frontenac to eat?" Well, if you haven't been watching the game, Cardwell is two for two, with a pair of home runs.
Astute boo-birds now have a chance to call Cardwell's next shot. At press time, BC's Kitchen was on schedule to debut in late July—at The Meadows at Lake Saint Louis, no less. So has he finally, truly gone crazy? SLM asks the questions. You make the call.
You've maintained a steady — and quite healthy — business at Cardwell's at the Plaza for 16 years. Why expand now? This has been in the works for two years. Things were a lot different two years ago. That said, it's still a good venue. BC's is the anchor restaurant at The Meadows, where I have a relationship with the developer—the same one who owns Plaza Frontenac.
You're straying from your demographic as well. For this concept, it doesn't really bother me. There's a huge and growing population base and no restaurants. There's a nice blend out there, and they're hungry. Literally. And there are plans for several more restaurants. There'll be a hotel next year, and a high-end department store, Von Maur, has signed on as well. A lot has changed out there.
Twenty years ago, you introduced St. Louis to "creative seasonal fare." Now it is commonplace. Any more rabbits in your hat? No, that term just evolved. I cook what I like, staying close to the season, just like we did on our farm in Vermont. I've been cooking that way ever since. That being said, I still need to locate a decent off-season tomato to serve on a hamburger in January.
You have stated how important it is create a niche. I ASSUME BC'S FILLS A NICHE? I have a 21-year brand that I want to freshen up. I could have called it Cardwell's at the Meadows, but opening up our kitchen will casualize it—you will feel that you are coming into our kitchen, dining in our kitchen. That's the niche.
How will it differ from Cardwell's at the Plaza? Both in structure and content. Growing up, we had spaghetti and meatballs on Wednesdays, beef on Saturdays and chicken on Sundays. We have mirrored that here: pasta on Wednesdays, prime rib every Saturday and organic fried chicken all day Sunday. Some people call it comfort food. I call it honest food.
Will you wipe the menu slate clean, or will some dishes follow you out Highway 40? Several of my signature dishes, like the house-smoked shrimp and the calamari, will make the trip.
At a lesser price point? Not really. I can't buy what I buy and charge any less and survive.
How have transportation costs affected small local purveyors? Will you be forced to deal more with commercial suppliers? Not long ago, the small supplier would deliver your tomatoes or mushrooms direct—very inefficient and dysfunctional. Fortunately for us, Andy Ayres, whose daughter now operates his restaurant [Riddles Penultimate Café & Wine Bar], now visits all these farmers and acts as a coop broker. Off-season, we deal more with the commercial suppliers, who, if you work with them, can supply you with very good stuff.
In light of all that, does it pay to be a small supplier? It's getting harder. Our chicken guy couldn't afford the organic chicken feed, so he went back to making furniture.
