By George Mahe
Photograph by Katherine Bish
Pestalozzi. The word is synonymous with only one thing in these parts, but it’s time to put down your Koozies, St. Louis, and shake hands with Pestalozzi Place.
Most locals don’t realize that the famous street with royal beginnings dead-ends in a shy curtsy at Grand. Nearby, the keen-eyed will notice the unobtrusive mirrored P that marks the entrance to this casual eatery. (Yes, it looks like the office for a development in Tower Grove East, but go in anyway.)
The décor is as simple as it is brilliant: a wooden bar that’s just the right size, just enough local art, Acoustic Alchemy hiding in the corners and a dining area just big enough for an ideal 50 seats. It gets better. Twisted classics such as chicken Wellington, a spicy fettuccini Alfredo and a roasted-beet salad with chèvre and chocolate shavings will have doubters’ heads nodding; regulars prefer the pork tenderloin or the short-rib osso bucco, reminiscent of winter Sunday meals that are aromatic by noon but not served until 6. Lunch is highlighted by several open-faced sandwiches that provide the perfect midday heft for the carbophobe.
The real discovery here, though, is value—extreme value. Most dinners fall in the $10 range, and that’s including a side. The wine pricing is unique: a drinkable vintage that goes for $6 a glass costs $17 a bottle; $7 glasses are $21 per bottle. (Well, then, a bottle it is!) The owners have devoted much of the list to sub-$20 bargains, a research project as laborious as fantasy football, and it works—you’ll see bottles everywhere.
The fact is, places like Pestalozzi should be cloned. It’s the kind of spot with a Cheers mentality, respectable food and affordable midweek appeal. Most of us would gladly sacrifice that teaspoon of perfection for a pound of good vibes and great value. You’ll leave with some cash and a smile ... and maybe the rest of that bottle of wine.
2900 Virginia (at Pestalozzi), 314-865-0775. Hours: 11 a.m.–10 p.m. Mon–Thu, 11 a.m.–midnight Fri, 4 p.m.–midnight Sat.
