By Stefanie Ellis
Photograph by Katherine Bish
“It’s loud in here,” my friend said as we grabbed a table at Bar Louie, one of the Central West End’s newest bar/eateries. “What?” I yelled back, only half-joking. We definitely weren’t in a place where intimate conversations could or should take place.
A pub, bar and restaurant rolled into one, Bar Louie is something of a cosmopolitan watering hole. The large, loft-like space is the place where everyone from young professionals to students to families can gather: around the serpentine bar, in the casual section with bar table seating, in a mid section with table seating or in a more intimate section with funky couches and chairs.
The menu is long, with onion rings and fried zucchini listed rather ambitiously under the category of “small plates.” Still, the bruschetta pomodoro, a giant martini glass filled with tomatoes, garlic and basil flanked by grilled bread, was worth gawking at when it arrived at a table across from us, and the inclusion of a plate of hummus, tabbouleh and tzatziki made up for the preponderance of mozzarella sticks and chicken wings. Large plates include fried fish tacos, jambalaya and mac ’n’ cheese and are accompanied by a substantial collection of burgers, salads and sandwiches. We tried the tuna melt ($7.99), a tasty mix of red peppers, celery, basil and red onions topped with provolone and tomatoes on multigrain bread. It was surprisingly light (owing to a scant amount of mayo) and sweet (owing to an infusion of basil). The aged Wisconsin cheddar grilled cheese with tomatoes and bacon on multi-grain bread ($6.99), however, soon felt like a lump in my stomach. The cheese was congealed and imparted zero flavor. The fries, however, were phenomenal ($1.99). A magical mix of seasoning, coupled with crunchy exteriors and warm, silken insides, made them
impossible to resist.
I don’t know that the great lure of Bar Louie is the food. But judging by the throngs of people seated around the bar, they weren’t there for food anyway.
14 Maryland Plaza, 314-678-3385, www.barlouieamerica.com. 11 a.m.–1 a.m. Sun–Thu, 11 a.m.–2.am. Fri & Sat
