By Alexi Zentner
Photograph by Katherine Bish
You probably won’t go to King Louie’s just for the fries. That’s not a slight against the fries so much as it is a comment about how good the rest of the menu is. With fresh local ingredients, and dishes such as monkfish with braised yellow lentils, bacon and sherry vinegar jus, French fries might seem an odd choice. But they are a good choice, served with a truffle mayonnaise, hot, crisp, and herby. Eaten alone they’re wonderful, but dipped in the accompanying mayonnaise, which is cool and rich, they are even more delightful. You won’t miss the ketchup.
3800 Chouteau, 314-865-3662, Mon-Thu 5 p.m.-10 p.m., Fri-Sat 5 p.m.-11 p.m.
