By George Mahe
Photograph by Katherine Bish
Several of Larry Levy’s restaurants have become institutions—but we’ve always had to travel to enjoy them. Now the former St. Louisan has given us a reason to stay home: ~scape in the CWE. By lowering ceilings to a respectable level, Levy created a quiet, sexy intimacy that flows to all three levels. Downstairs is the slick 80-seat, glass-walled Wine Cellar; above, the Fountain Room doubles those seats and adds floor-to-ceiling windows, a demonstration kitchen and a fiber-optic chandelier that Chihuly would appreciate. In the main room, request a fan-backed booth, catch a mirrored glimpse of Maryland Plaza’s Bellagio-style fountain or reflect on the elegance of ultra-thin–stem crystal and black napery for black dresses. One order of the Parmesan Truffle Fries or the French-cruller–sized onion rings is sufficient to share; for the Barbecued Shrimp & Grits, it’s “let’s order another.” Extra points go to Levy’s partner Ted Koplar for transforming the rear alley into the city’s finest Euro-style courtyard. Alas, Levy is no Houdini: This ~scape will be his first and only.
