Photograph by Kevin A. Roberts
10427 Clayton
Frontenac
314-569-0405
viaviavino.com
Dinner only, Tue–Sat
For those who’ve been sequestered for the last decade, allow us to acquaint you with the “wine bar”: 1) This century’s new hangout, an equal mix of foodie and fogey; 2) A place where small plates are as big as the vibe; 3) An after-hours coffee shop of sorts, where another pressed beverage is the preferred libation. And like the pub or tavern of yesteryear, there’s one popping up in every neighborhood. The newest, in Frontenac, comes with a suitably fancy-pants moniker, Via Vino Enoteca, allowable here because its creator is restaurateur Michael Del Pietro, whose recent noodlings (Sugo’s and Babbo’s) are as hot as his sugo all’arrabbiata. With black walls, marble tabletops, and marbleized floors, Enoteca feels more classic than common (think Sam Cavato, not Sam’s). It’s for a Sugo’s customer on a different night, one who appreciates both choice (30 wines by the glass) and tidiness (a dozen and a half small plates, half a dozen larger ones). And tidy for Del Pietro as well—Enoteca is located immediately next door to Sugo’s.
