Photograph by Katherine Bish
The popularity of sushi is easy to explain, but the density of local sushi restaurants is not. Some areas, like Kirkwood and Webster, have none; some have a smattering; and then there’s tiny Clayton, which, if you include the Ritz’s Lobby Lounge, weighs in with a disproportionate four … make that five. Creating a sake-fueled frenzy is Tani Sushi Bistro, a culinary non sequitur that mixes well-executed gimmicks, like beef cooked tableside on hot rocks, with well-executed maki-zushi (there are 35 different rolls), then tosses in a spiffy bar staffed with a pedigreed mixologist. The décor mixes new cool with old school: Original brick and beams add panache; a birch chandelier adds whimsy; and cardboard art and a big red monochrome of Tokyo provide the edge. Tani has tweaked the sushi experience to appeal to younger, more Midwestern tastes: Some rolls are baked, two are served flaming and our favorite, a no-rice calamari roll stuffed only with salmon and cream cheese, is fried. For us, removing the rice removed all the guilt.
16 S. Bemiston, 314-727-8264, tanisushibistro.com. Lunch: Mon–Fri 11 a.m.–2:30 p.m. Dinner: Mon–Thu 4:30–10 p.m., Fri & Sat 4:30–11 p.m.
