By Alexi Zentner
Photograph by Katherine Bish
From far away, the glowing ball atop Red Moon’s building serves as a beacon. One of a new wave of ambitious restaurants to claim a spot in the revitalized Washington Avenue loft district, Red Moon is shooting for a French-influenced Asian menu, sometimes hitting, sometimes missing. While the exterior is a little scary—the building is a half-block off Washington, and you enter through what is essentially an alley—the interior is great—red, cool and cohesive. Red Moon has a feeling of energy and is a fun place, but the food is uneven and an open kitchen gives you a peek at dramas taking place between the kitchen and wait staffs. One crowd favorite, the chicken nems—a reinterpretation of lettuce wraps—is a good bet. You get crisp chicken spring rolls with cool lettuce (you wrap the lettuce around the entire spring roll) and a trio of dipping sauces. Less successful was the slightly mushy seafood pad Thai. The menu is interesting, though, with dishes such as whole zesty lime Cornish hen with coconut-lime broth and wok-fried whole red snapper, and the vibe is good.
1500 St. Charles, 314-436-9700, www.redmoon-stl.com, Mon-Thu 5-10 p.m. and Fri-Sat 5-11 p.m.
