Jeff Constance is at a big advantage. He's worked with heavyweights Tom Colicchio and Charlie Palmer and most recently was corporate executive chef for the seven local J.Buck's restaurants. In a bold move, he's cherry-picked two shuttered Buck's locations, removed the oversized photos and the broadcast paraphernalia (and that dark, country-club vibe), and introduced a brighter, bouncier steakhouse-meets-bar-andgrill amalgam: Hanley's Grille & Tap, a thrifty pair of turnkey operations devoid of debilitating startup costs and those pesky franchise fees. What does all of this mean to the diner? In short, value. The menu choices—13 categories' worth—are as wide and deep as Constance's résumé. The poblano ketchup–roasted meatloaf is an unusual, silky rendition; the chili-roasted cod is sublime; and the aged-in-house, 8-ounce beef tenderloin dinner for $19.95 is the best deal going. All we ask is that you honor the spirit of the previous tenant's namesake and refrain from saying, "That's a winner."
315 St. Clair Square (Fairview Heights, Ill.; opened August 2009)
79 West County Center (Des Peres; opened October 2009)
Phone: 618-632-6500, 314-984-8900
Website: hanleysgt.com
Hours: Lunch and dinner daily
