Photograph by Kevin A. Roberts
6300 Clayton
Richmond Heights
314-647-7300
Lunch and dinner daily
Renovating a restaurant—especially a bar—can be tricky. Oftentimes, the end result is accompanied by this under-the-breath lament: “We liked it better before.” The Cheshire’s new owners refurbished every part of the storied hotel except the Fox & Hounds, which was left blissfully untouched: the chess nooks, the hunting lodge–style bric-a-brac, and the cushy couch in the “lover’s corner.” The heavy, iron-hoop chandelier remains as well, emitting scarcely more lumens than true candlelight. The only fixture missing is longtime bartender Mark Pollmann, forever admonishing the men to yield their bar stools to the ladies (who most nights occupied all of them). The pub fare is the same, but vastly improved: hot dogs from a noted local salumeria; jumbo, herb-dusted wings tossed in Newcastle Brown Ale hot sauce; and the Cheshire Burger, now grass-fed, which lives on with a ramekin of signature Medart relish by its side. If you liked the Fox & Hounds before, indeed, you will again. Now get up and offer that lady your seat!
