By George Mahe
Photograph by Katherine Bish
It’s unfortunate that today’s restaurant designers have eliminated “quiet” from their blueprints; “too noisy” has become the diner’s ubiquitous complaint. But alas, lip-reading skills are not required at Bistro Alexander, Mario Nikolov’s gift to decibel-heavy Clayton. There’s a hushed sophistication, an upscale air, a well-dressed clientele—it feels like that cozy side room at the club. But no pretense here: First on the table is a chilled, filtered, stoppered bottle of the country’s No. 1 tap water. Securing permanence on a seasonal menu are a grilled sea scallop salad, with an outstanding creamy Bulgarian feta (Mario’s find), wild mushrooms, artichoke bottoms and fava beans, as well as herb-seared tuna, bias-cut and fanned across a similar jumble. Most intriguing has been the rise of the bistro’s signature soup, grilled portabella and smoked Gouda, with a taste as unusual as its dark, earthy clay color. Thanks again, Mario. I just left your place, and my ears aren’t ringing.
7927 Forsyth, 314-725-9999. Hours: 11 a.m.–2:30 p.m. Mon–Fri, 5 p.m.–10 p.m. Mon–Sat.
