By George Mahe
Photograph by Katherine Bish
No, it’s no misprint. We really are taking a “First Look” at a 35-year-old classic. With new restaurants popping up quicker than skimpy halter tops in summer, we thought it refreshing to see a recognizable name paired with a new face. New owners and a new chef relaunched the Central West End mainstay in January, and although B’ban’s footprint remains the same (despite whispers of a major café redo), the new theme is lighter, brighter and cleaner—in both food and décor. In the kitchen, reductions have replaced roux; in the bar, three sizes of carafes (they’re baaack) outshine dusty old Cabs. Chef Andy White has wisely improved upon the few classics that remain (beef Wellington and the Balaburger), and with future favorites like shrimp and grits (that’s no misprint, either) and the misnamed but sinful blue-crab mayonnaise, you won’t even miss the Ligurian pasta. (Our bet is that those old standbys will phoenix as daily specials.) Last, a note from the chef to the new crop of boutique farmers: The screen door on McPherson is now open for business.
405 N. Euclid, 314-361-8085, cafebalaban.com. Hours: 11 a.m.–10 p.m. Mon-Thu, 11 a.m.–11 p.m. Fri, 5–11 p.m. Sat, 5–10 p.m. Sun, Sat & Sun brunch.
