By Alexi Zentner
Niche, a lovely space in the Benton Park neighborhood, is a shining new addition to the St. Louis restaurant scene, which has been on a good run for the last year or so. Niche is inviting but upscale, with butcher paper over white tablecloths, jazz on the stereo and a cozy feel (cozy as in "nice," not as in "code for cramped"). Most important, the food is stunning: at least in the early going, chef Gerard Craft has set the bar quite high for himself. The lamb shank with an Anheuser-Busch–lager reduction, polenta, wild mushrooms and corn was so flavorful and visually compelling that a certain unnamed food writer forgot to take notes. That same writer does remember actually groaning aloud over the rich, buttery mushrooms. Perfectly done seared scallops with vanilla caramelized applies, spinach and reduced cider were likewise beautiful in both taste and appearance. The menu is commpact, but with starters such as fig salad and a corn soup (about $8) and main courses including the vegetable tart, bistro steak and tarragon chicken breast with gnocchi ($18-$20), you will certainly find something you want. The only complaint, which almost feels like nitpicking, is that the choice of wines by the glass is severely limited.
1831 Sidney, 314-773-7755, 5:30-9 p.m. Tue-Thu, 5:30-10 p.m. Fri & Sat.
