By George Mahe
Photograph by Katherine Bish
There’s a new French-American bistro in Soulard, and it’s going to make you say ahhh. It starts with the name: Franco. As in “Frahnco.” (Calling it “Frank-o” just ruins the mood.) Then you glance up at the ceiling and feel yourself floating on waves of blond maple. Ahhh … very calming. The team at Space Interiors scores again with a design of angular, guitar pick–shaped tables that virtually guarantee good conversation in the primo window seats. Ahhh … cool. The designers even solved the “hip but too noisy” dilemma: Liberal use of porous Missouri barn wood keeps the din to a minimum and allows you to converse with your dinner guests tonight sans hoarseness tomorrow. Feel free to discuss the nuances of the root vegetables in the lamb stew, weigh the pairing of mussels with pommes frites or toast the discovery of a well-trained serving staff. Just don’t miss the truly outstanding appetizer: tempura-fried avocado wedges dressed with crabmeat atop a lime-poblano sauce. Perfect in taste, texture and temperature, they, too, merit a sigh of ecstasy. And remember, it’s Frahhhnco. Everybody say ahhh.
1535 S. Eighth, 314-436-2500, eatatfranco.com. Hours: 11 a.m.–1 a.m. Mon–Sat.
