Review - Monarch

This Maplewood marvel sets a high standard for fine dining.

By Dave Lowry

The tiny silhouette of a monarch butterfly, fluttering on the edge of the plate, was the giveaway, but there were other signs, to be sure, of refined distinction: the discreet switching from white napkins to black as we were seated, lest any lint show up on dark clothing; a selection of amuse-bouche that appeared soon after—even though our reservation was so early in the evening that the staff was still hustling around to get the dinner service under way. But the butterfly, rendered in a few brief lines, so small as to be almost unnoticeable, says the most about the restaurant named for it. Monarch is among that rare class of eateries so confident, so stylish, that virtually everything in the place save for the food is understated and unassertive, designed less to impress and more to make a meal there an uninterrupted delight.

The menu is small, its descriptions refreshingly simple; it seems, though, as if each selection has been painstakingly chosen. What arrives at the table reveals a kitchen at the top of its game. Main courses are uniformly beautiful, the visual aspect of the food balanced, creative, inviting. Burgundy rivulets of a reduction sauce run over scallopines of veal pounded thin and sautéed golden brown. They’re presented alongside a tumble of steamed Brussels sprouts and a piped mound of mashed butternut squash ($26). Just a dark splatter of a potent Cabernet reduction sauce colors a pair of boneless braised short ribs arranged around a scattering of delicately grilled fingerling potatoes and green beans ($26). Beef tenderloin is grilled to order, plated handsomely with whipped potatoes flavored with Brie and haricots verts lightly sautéed ($29). Not a single presentation is fussy or pampered. No signs of mashed-potato minarets, no porcupine pasta quills studding the entrée, no ostentatious displays of culinary architectural whimsy—just excellent food, attractively arranged.

Another unmistakable sign of a top-notch restaurant is food with layers of taste that fan out across the palate. The Brussels sprouts tasted steamed, with a dash of salt and coarse pepper, but had a buttery, creamy richness that gave subtle character to the vegetable. We were excited about the skate, too often over-looked as a seafood: Lightly breaded, then pan-sautéed, it was delightful. It was bathed in a rich, nutty beurre noisette, every bite an unfolding sensation of taste and texture. (There may have been a subtle wink from the kitchen here; the darker browned-butter beurre noir is a classic addition to skate in France.) The side of wilted spinach, studded with meaty oyster mushrooms and capers, was exquisite. A cake of risotto rice with finely shredded leeks accompanying the skate was almost as enjoyable. Much of the silliness of fusion cooking lies in the loss of the ingredients’ integrity: The attempt to meld ingredients results in mediocrity, and nothing stands out. But this rice cake—and many other dishes here—are at the other end of the spectrum. From the stock to the rice to the knifework on the leeks—all are apparent in your mouth.

Appetizers work well. A triangle of puff pastry encases a confit of duck breast, the slow-cooked meat meltingly tender and accompanied by a knot of juicy wild mushrooms in a raspberry–port wine reduction with toasted pistachios ($8). Along with slivers of shiitake mushrooms, parchment-thin slices of beef carpaccio dusted with powdered espresso and cinnamon are rolled around sprigs of prickly-tart arugula, then sprinkled with truffle oil and placed atop toast points. It’s a felicitous combination of taste and texture, though cumbersome to eat ($12). A smooth, piquant raspberry vinaigrette, crumbles of Gorgonzola cheese and a sprinkling of roasted pecans make a house salad of mixed field greens special. Crusty cubes of bread made with Asiago do the same for a Caesar salad (both $7). Bread here is unusual; an array of several varieties includes slices of a walnut-raisin loaf that are a little thick as an opener, almost like a fruitcake. Still, we enjoyed the oatmeal-studded crust, and it would make a nice light dessert.

And speaking of desserts ... From a bread pudding to a fabulously chocolatey flourless cake, all are outstanding—and we know, because a platter of them appeared gratis at the end of our meal. This happened after one diner at our table noted to our waiter that the tenderloin, though delicious, arrived a little more cooked than was ordered. The manager appeared instantly with an apology; the desserts came soon after. The situation was handled with a quick yet genteel efficiency. Restaurants are often easiest to judge by how they cover errors. Monarch gets a perfect score on this important criterion.

The wine list is one of the most extensive around; the cellar here is a wonder, and you should take the time for a peek inside. It’s weighted in the direction of Cabernet Sauvignon, Burgundy and Bordeaux, offering a wide selection of each from various countries. We were happy with an affordable ’03 Cabernet Sauvignon from Chile’s Maipo Valley, from the vineyards of Alvaro Espinoza, the big kahuna of Chilean winemakers. Cassis and raspberries and a delicate balance of tannins and fruit made a nice complement to the tenderloin and short ribs ($28).

Service misses not a beat. On one visit a waiter steered us away from a more expensive wine we had mentioned, suggesting a fine alternative. Specials are described with the kind of excitement that reflects a staff with an interest in their restaurant, and their enthusiasm is infectious.

Monarch has, since its opening, continued to morph. There is a more informal and usually busy bistro section with a separate menu. More recently a wine bar has been added, with suggested wines for the menu there. The main dining area is airy, attractive and modern. Artwork on the walls is actually pleasant, a rarity in a St. Louis restaurant. Monarch sits near the epicenter of Maplewood’s remarkable renovation, and it holds the same position among fine restaurants in the area..

Address: 7401 Manchester

Phone: 314-644-3995

Website: www.monarchrestaurant.com

Lunch: Tue–Fri 11 a.m.–2 p.m.

Dinner: 5–11 p.m. Mon–Sat; wine bar open until 1:30 a.m.

Average Main Course: $26

Reservations: You betcha.

Dress: Know the difference between chalkstripe and pinstripe? Dress as though you do.

Bottom Line: An extraordinary restaurant featuring an imaginative menu, stellar service and an inviting atmosphere.