Review - Limoncello

Classic Italian in Clayton's cuore

By Dave Lowry

Think the competition at the Winter Olympics was tough? How’d you like to start a restaurant in Clayton? With competition in this locale like that of full-contact ice dancing, you have to admire anyone just for trying—but that’s what Limoncello has done, moving into the heart of Clayton and specializing almost exclusively in Italian standards, not in the nouveau cuisines that mark most eateries in that neighborhood. The atmosphere here is formal, contemporary and pleasant. A wall-sized wine rack adds a dimension to the main dining room, which includes both cozy nooks and an open space for tables. There’s a small bar at the entrance, along with a row of tables for two that look directly out onto the street; though the noise level is higher here, these cozy tables are still the best in the house for intimate dining.

Antipasti range from the very good to the merely decent. Toasted ravioli, for instance, are only adequate—but the thick, meaty Bolognese dip is excellent, and we used it for dipping bread once the ravioli ran out ($5.75). Another outstanding sauce was the spicy marinara that accompanied crisp rings of squid in a light batter ($7.95). The dash of limoncello, the incredibly concentrated lemon liqueur that is the restaurant’s namesake, is an inspired addition to an appetizer of scallops sautéed with slices of portobello ($8.50). A couple of other appetizers worth consideration are the eggplant slices, breaded and fried and layered with tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella and Parmigiano Reggiano and sprinkled with balsamic vinegar ($12.95); and breaded artichokes topped with prosciutto and mozzarella ($5.75). The Caesar salad ($5.50) and the house salad, a tossing of field greens ($4.50), are bright, fresh and nicely sized. Mealy tomatoes long out of season, however, compromised the caprese salad ($5.95).

Unless you’ve never eaten in an Italian restaurant, you won’t find any surprises among the main courses, which consist primarily of pasta, steaks, seafood and veal. The last gets particular attention. Slices of veal are sautéed in a white-wine or Marsala sauce with vegetables or served in a more complex saltimbocca presentation, wrapped in slices of prosciutto with mozzarella (all $17.95). The Milanese version is preferable, mainly because the simplicity of the preparation—the meat pounded thin and sautéed in lemon, olive oil and garlic—puts the veal’s flavor and texture center stage on the palate ($16.75).

Steaks are hearty, of very good quality and grilled with the subtle addition of ingredients that were the noble provenance of the “Italian steakhouse.” Three different 9-ounce fillets are all worthy. The Benedetto is served with sautéed pearl onions and wild mushrooms in a syrupy port-wine sauce ($24.95). The Cognac is topped with sliced portobellos and green peppers in a cognac sauce ($24.50). Most rewarding, the Palermitano is grilled with a spritz of lemon, a rub of olive oil and a sprinkling of garlic ($22.50). That preparation works equally well in a 14-ounce steak that will test the most serious eater ($24.50). In the single chicken dish, campagnola, or “country style,” a dry sherry is used to baste the roasted boneless breast instead of the expected vin santo. It’s a good substitute, and the kitchen goes light on the butter, we were told, to remain true to the dish’s Tuscan roots ($16.50).

Aside from a fresh-fish-of-the-day special and lobster tail, seafood offerings are limited to shrimp. That extraordinary combination of lemon, olive oil and garlic works splendidly with lightly breaded shrimp ($17.95). But consider the house special, with the shrimp sauteed in a lemon–and–white-wine sauce and served with rice ($18.50).

Pastas are expertly prepared, uniformly al dente. A beautifully simple “family” version comprises tubes of penne tossed with olive oil, garlic, fresh tomatoes and slices of eggplant ($16.95). Linguini and a pleasing array of seafood come together with a rich white-wine–and–mushroom sauce ($18.95). That liberal portion of seafood also appears in a completely satisfying risotto. We’ve had better-prepared risotto rice but have rarely experienced such a generous helping of chunky shrimp, buttery scallops, clams and mussels as we did in Limoncello’s version. All were perfectly cooked, the rice fragrant with a white-wine–and–mushroom broth ($18.95). A more restrained risotto comes with sautéed onions and porcini mushrooms in a white-wine sauce ($17.95).

A nice balance between offerings from New and Old World vintages characterizes the wine list here. Prices are happily reasonable. A bright, apple-y ’03 La Crema Chardonnay with a crisp finish was perfect with the shrimp-and seafood risotto ($36). The ’02 Pernot Puligny Montrachet is an impressively successful vintage that got the attention of oenophiles worldwide; although not a steal at $44, it’s a great deal nonetheless.

We’re always impressed by dinnerware when a restaurant takes the time to select it properly and with an eye toward aesthetics. Limoncello deserves praise for big, deep dishes, almost like rimmed soup plates, that make pasta dishes dramatic and inviting. Service was efficient and timely, but at a plate of this caliber, our waitress should not have referred to us guys as “you guys.” More importantly, the finale of her spiel on desserts that evening should not have concluded with “... and I think some other kind of cake, but I’m not sure what it is.” Another glitch: The valet was a lone warrior, frantically shuttling cars, and we waited nearly 10 minutes for ours while three other prospective diners sat idling on the street, waiting for him.

Most of Clayton’s recently opened restaurants have staked their reputations and success on innovative presentations and fare that’s quirky or exotic or exotically quirky. Limoncello is wagering that a cosmopolitan setting, a not-perfect-but-trying effort toward a romantic yet convivial atmosphere and superb renditions of Italian classics will make it a winner. It’s a good bet.

Limoncello Italian Café

Address: 7927 Forsyth

Phone: 314-862-0550

Website: www.limoncelloitaliancafe.com

Average Dinner Course: $19

Reservations: It’s in Clayton, isn’t it?

Dress: As if they’re remaking A Summer Place and you’re trying out for the roles of Sandra Dee and Troy Donahue

Bottom Line: Comfortable, semiformal dining in the heart of Clayton, featuring several worthwhile Italian classics