One of St. Louis’ top stylists has the answer
By Nicole Benoist Edgerton
Photographs by Frank Di Piazza and Suzanne Miller
When Darren Brokaw’s not taming our city’s best-tressed at Christopher’s Hair Salon in Clayton, he’s traveling the world with Great Lengths USA—where he’s creative director and director of education—teaching big-name stylists how to place the perfect extension. Whether coiffing in Milan, Manhattan or Missouri, Brokaw is the consummate professional, meaning he won’t dish on which celebrities are wearing the 100 percent-hair creations. But here’s a hint: Check out the recently incarcerated starlets on the cover of the latest gossip magazines. Now you know.
How did you get your start? I grew up in St. Louis, and both my parents were hairdressers. I worked nights for my dad cleaning his salon, and I was always going to hair shows with my mom since she was one of the original Sebastian distributors.
You attended the Aveda Academy. Yes, I can’t say I was a great student in high school, but I was on the honor roll at the Aveda Academy. After graduation, I stayed in Minneapolis working directly with [Aveda founder] Horst Rechelbacher at his salon, Horst & Friends, and as the New Talent Instructor for Aveda.
All great artists have a muse. Did you? Sort of. My parents always had mannequin heads lying around the house. I would stay in my room duplicating hairstyles from videos and fashion magazines. Before I was a licensed stylist, I’d cut my friends’ hair at my dad’s shop after hours. Word started getting out, and soon there was a line of people waiting.
What inspires you? Many of my ideas come from people-watching and traveling. Each city has its own sense of style, so I try to get the big picture and incorporate how it will work here. Last year many women in San Francisco were wearing low, deep parts with bangs sweeping across the face. I modified it and made it more wearable for my clients.
What trends are you seeing for fall? People are talking about Victoria Beckham because she has a definite style and a strong haircut. At Great Lengths, we are changing the conception that extensions are just for length. It is a great way to reinvent a hairstyle [à la Beckham’s dramatic bangs] or add highlights and volume.
What’s the biggest challenge with extensions? Seeing the difference between good and bad extensions. The proper application should look like your hair, not extensions. If they hurt or you can see them, you may want to have corrective work done. Your stylist should advise you on how to maintain them. Hair needs to be at least 5 inches long, brushed two to three times a day and tied back when you sleep. Do not put any heat on the bond because it will cause the extensions to fall out, and don’t lengthen to an inappropriate length because it will not look like one piece of hair.
What’s the secret to easy hair? Don’t fight what your hair wants to do naturally. Get a great cut and make sure it works for your hair texture. Keep your hair healthy; if you don’t, you have to struggle to make it look that way, which is more work. Use professional products and go to a colorist who knows how to color. If you’re going to a professional salon and have damaged hair, it’s time to find a new hairdresser.
Brokaw’s Must-Have Products
For the Gals:
Bumble and bumble Hair Powder, $37
“After blow-drying, spray underneath hair and you’ll see instant volume. A quick fix for dirty hair because it absorbs oil for a cleaner look.”
It’s a 10 Miracle Leave-In Product, $18
“My favorite product! It repairs, adds shine, seals and protects hair color, prevents split ends and enhances natural body.”
Hair Sexy Concepts Smooth & Seal Anti-Frizz Spray, $18
“Silicone spray that gives shine and smoothes hair without weighing it down.”
For the Guys:
Bumble and bumble Curl Conscious, $27
“Perfect creme for curly hair. Gives that moist look without looking wet.”
Sebastian Xtah Crude Clay, $19
“I use this on most of my male clients for maximum hold without looking greasy or stiff.”
ghd Styler Flat Iron, $240
“Great for achieving spiky, textured hair that Ryan Seacrest made popular.”
