Casual Italian
Raw pasta is inexpensive, and cooked pasta should be. Nowadays, good wine can be inexpensive as well. So why should a respectable bowl of pasta and a glass of wine cost as much as an entire gourmet pizza? Makes no sense to us — or to the owners of Ricardo's Italian Café, where you can get capellini and meatballs for $9.75. (Hey, we're maxed out with the half-order for $6.75.) And can you quibble with Restaurant Hospitality's "Best Small Wine List in America 2007," at $5 to $6 per glass? We didn't think so. 1931 Park, 314-421-4833, ricardositaliancafe.com
French
Despite a history of St. Louis restaurants specializing in the cuisine, only Chez Leon has managed to keep the porte ouvert. The fare: classic bistro. Braised sweetbreads with morels, strip steak with frites, veal sautéed with wine and mushrooms. The wine menu reads like a connoisseur's Christmas wish list, and it's all served on white linen in a convivial atmosphere that says "leisurely dining" like an invitation to a Celine Dion concert says "Sorry, other plans." 4580 Laclede, 314-361-1589, chezleon.com
Barbecue
Condiment junkie? Pappy's Smokehouse will break you of the habit. The dry-rubbed ribs will have you licking your fingers before you realize you didn't reach for the sauce. The pulled pork (pulled to order, we might add) is piled high and expertly smoked, with a back-taste of apple and cherry wood just sneaking in. If you must, apply a little Sweet Baby Jane sauce. Better yet, use that cowboy ketchup as a dipper for sweet-potato fries made even sweeter by a spray of brown sugar. Yeehaw! 3106 Olive, 314-535-4340, pappyssmokehouse.com
Indian
Tough call. For variety, authenticity and taste, we have to go with Priyaa. A longtime staple of the Hyderabadi, biryani is bright with cardamom and coriander; the fat, yeasty rolls of stuffed dosa hang over plates; tandoori chicken blushes scarlet with smoky flavor. Chutneys sparkle; curries are complex and aromatic. Their version of palak paneer, tofu-like cheese cubes with spinach, tastes exactly how this dish is supposed to taste. The lunch buffet here is a local favorite. 1910 McKelvey, 314-542-6148, priyaaindiancuisine.com
Steakhouse
Mihalis Chophouse celebrates a long-gone America where people drank hard liquor and ate huge hunks of red meat. The protein of choice here is dry-aged, USDA-certified Prime beef, accompanied by a complimentary side dish, another fleeting nicety. Should you order a salad, a whole garden of greens appears. When you consider the substantial wine list (and the staff who's familiar with it) and the civilized noise level throughout, this contemporary neighborhood steakhouse has managed to get all the important things right. 1603 McCausland, 314-333-3301, mihalischophouse.com
Noodles
Oodles of them make Wonton King a must for the knowledgeable noodle nosher. Flat, golden maifun noodles, eggy chow mein fried into crunchy patties, long lo mein in stir-fries — the variety of noodles here makes Italian pasta choices seem meager. They're in soups — a specialty of the place — accompanied by tasty bits of duck, pork, chicken and beef, all delicately flavored. The broths here are fragrant, rich and satisfying. Few meals are cheaper; even fewer are better. 8116 Olive, 314-567-9997, wonton-king.com
Thai
Great Thai dishes combine more ingredients than kids cramming into a spring-break motel room, resulting in layers of flavors that swirl over your palate. Red, green and yellow curries at Thai Country Cafe are all distinctive, all delicious. Spicy frog legs with garlic and pepper, a duck stew redolent of basil and cilantro and smacked with garlic, along with more familiar tastes like the chewy tangles of pad Thai, make this place a jewel. 6223 Delmar, 314-862-0787, patsthairestaurants.com
Bar and Grill
Michael's has a split personality, and we're fine with that. Bar and grill or Greek restaurant? Your call. Both concepts are so well executed, we choose to stay neutral. Parmesan-dusted wings, hand-battered rings and a 5- or 10-ounce burger over here. A lamb shank and a gyro salad over there. Baklava and beer everywhere. An odd mix, perhaps, but a can't-go-wrong one. Had we named the place, we'd have called it Sybil's. 7101 Manchester, 314-644-2240
Wine List
Having a great wine list takes more than having a ton of wine. A great wine list needs to have a balanced selection, regional diversity, user-friendliness and direction. The wine list at Truffles has all these points covered and more, with more than 900 selections, 30 by the glass, and an entire page "reserved" for wine under $25. Highlights include 60-plus vertical offerings, 12 vintages of Château Mouton Rothschild and a 1955 Domaine Leroy Mazi-Chambertin that's as rare as ... truffles. 9202 Clayton, 314-567-9100, trufflesinladue.com
Asian Grocery
Cattle tendon, sea slugs, duck feet ... There are some items on your shopping list that the corner market just doesn't always have in stock. Thankfully, there's the Asian Farmer's Market. The aisles here are filled with everything from dried fish to noodles to fresh and frozen animal parts you never knew were edible. Fresh fruits and vegetables, including several species of bananas, mangoes and pears, are all available as well, along with a huge selection of Asian cooking utensils. 8041 Olive, 314-997-7573
Place for a First Date
Monarch's high-backed booths exude sexiness. Ideally, reserve the middle one, the see-and-be-seen one. Arrange for glasses of champagne to meet you there, then either go light with several finger-food courses or grab for the gusto of the chef's six-course "surprise us" romp. And make the last course his delectable Grand Marnier crème caramel, served with mini feed-me-some spoons. How can you top that? 7401 Manchester, 314-644-3995, monarchrestaurant.com
Place for a Fifth Date
She's met your friends. You've met her cat. You're still an item. A relationship that's made it this far demands dining that falls somewhere between romantic and affordable. Vivian's Vineyards fills the bill. Steaks, along with "jambalaya pasta," burgers and their famous PB&J make for a good meal. The offbeat décor and wicked sense of humor — an $80 lobster tail appetizer for "our kind of customer" — make this an enjoyable evening near St. Charles' historic district. 1409 N. Second, St. Charles, 636-940-8444, viviansvineyards.com
Pricey Meat
Happy pigs cavort in the forested hills of southern Spain under the gentle Mediterranean sun, snacking on wild grains and rich, oily acorns, living the porcine good life. Then we eat them. Several such sought-after meats—sweet and fragrant—are available in the U.S. at places like The Wine & Cheese Place. They're made for thin slicing and enjoying with a loaf of bread and a glass of wine. 7435 Forsyth, 314-727-8788; two other locations; wineandcheeseplace.com [Note: This entry has been edited to correct the statement that a kind of meat called Jamón ibérico is available here.]
Desserts
Dessert menus often lead diners down a tortuous road, either focusing on items from your grandma's kitchen or teetering on the edge of cinema, implementing fancy fruits and showy sauces. At Niche, pastry chef Mathew Rice does both with equal aplomb: Toll House Pie mingles with Meyer lemon semifreddo, blueberry buckle with Nutella gelato. Rice understands our vacillation between comfort and couture, and having mastered both, he's found a way to send everyone home happy. 1831 Sidney, 314-773-7755, nichestlouis.com
Gyros
Sure, there are some good gyro places around. What about those times, though, when you need a good gyro and tire work? Pita Plus offers hefty, meat-stuffed gyros; buttery, crusty burekas; and crispy falafel balls, along with achingly sweet baklava diamonds. Their house-made pitas sell out daily before noon. Outdoor seating in warm weather even affords a semi-romantic view of the bays next door, where your radials rotate while you dine. 13005 Olive, 314-453-9558
Taco
Mi Familia, in St. Ann, breaks the Cherokee Street monopoly on great taquerías. Along with a pungent salsa cruda and tiny lime wedge, a pair of fresh, chewy corn tortillas swaddle outstanding carne asada, spicy pork and other delectables. But muy sabrosos delicacies like tripe, tender cow cheeks and pork rind cooked in green sauce make for tacos so deliciously authentic, we think that's why so many amigos are crossing the border. 10472 St. Charles Rock Road, 314-429-5005
Brunch
If you think it's frivolous to drop a Franklin at brunch, you're not alone. At Nadoz Café at the Coronado, you get all the temptation at half the price. Should you not devour the entire basket of melt-in-your-mouth beignets, you may proceed to eggs Benedict — the English muffins are homemade. Pork, brisket, roulade of chicken — it's all there. The seafood — all fresh. But how to negotiate the myriad gâteaus, tarts and tortes? We saw the answer once on a T-shirt: "Life is uncertain ... Eat dessert first." 3701 Lindell, 314-446-6800, nadozcafe.com
Bread Service
A clean, simple and classic hunk of baguette, put to the hearth right before dinner service begins, makes up the outstanding centerpiece of Vin de Set's bread service. But then there's the extra virgin olive oil, the tapenade prepared with anchovies and capers, and the herbed butter that comes alongside. Heck, we even love the nifty plate it's all served upon, with separate compartments for the dips and spreads. It's like something out of a food-mag centerfold, and we almost feel bad about getting it for free. 2017 Chouteau, 314-241-8989, 1111-m.com
Caesar Salad
If it's above high tide in the Chesterfield Bottoms, Wild Horse Grill serves some superior presentations of beef, veal and seafood. A chicken breast gets stuffed with lobster; a duck breast is smoked in apple wood; beef tenderloin gets a luxurious bath of wine and veal glace. The must-try dish, though, is romaine hearts and crispy croutons tossed in a bowl — a bowl of crunchy, crusty Parmesan cheese. Caesar salad in an edible bowl. Genius. 101 Chesterfield Towne Center, 636-532-8750, wildhorsegrill.com
Crepes
Remember that properly they rhyme with "preps" and that making them can be trickier (and less palatable) than Latin subjunctives. Rooster gets the job done with papery, ethereally light disks of golden goodness, stuffing them with delectables like gooey brie, roasted ham, arugula, goat cheese or bacon and tomato. And if there's a better way to greet the morn than over a plate of their chocolate crepes with liquor-poached cherries, it's probably illegal. 1104 Locust, 314-241-8118, roosterstl.com
French Fries
What better way to celebrate bicultural bonhomie than a plate of hot, salty pommes frites? Atlas does 'em right. Crispy, golden brown; the inside fluffy, light and starchy; these are the potato equivalent of a hot Krispy Kreme. The only possible improvement is to pair them with Atlas' excellent strip steak so you can swish your frites in the luscious puddle of béarnaise sauce alongside. 5513 Pershing, 314-367-6800, atlasrestaurantstl.com
Chef
"Learning that other people are listening in on what I'm doing is humbling," says Eric Brenner, who's been on a hot streak since opening perennially cool Moxy Bistro in 2004. It's his humility that's gotten him so far. Eschewing diva chefdom — monstrous overheads, highfalutin concepts — he's become a behind-the-scenes wizard for other people's pet projects, such as Sub Zero's burger bar, the ramped-up menu at Kaldi's Coffeehouses and the upcoming Club Exo, which will feature Southern comfort food reimagined as elegant bar fare. We plan on listening for a long time to come. Moxy Bistro: 4584 Laclede, 314-361-4848, moxybistro.com
Breakfast Item
Usually healthy and fanciful breakfasts can be found only at weekend brunch spots; weekday mornings are for blue-collar bacon and eggs, the uninspired bagel — and not much else. Enter the Soulard Coffee Garden's full breakfast menu, served every day until 3 p.m. Pappie's Omelet is our favorite pick: guacamole, smoked turkey, fresh tomatoes and a topping of hollandaise sauce in a lovely shade of canary yellow, tasting light, lemony — and divine. (Potatoes come on the side, natch.) 910 Geyer, 314-241-1464, soulardcoffeegarden.blogspot.com
Cheeseburger
One of chef Andy White's scruples at Off the Vine is a $7 cheeseburger — and we thank him for that. Mind you, this is no flat-patty skimp job: The bun is brioche, the half-pound of sirloin is formed in loving hands and the fries are hand-cut and fairy-dusted with sea salt and pecorino. His final gift is the garnish: an assortment of house-pickled veggies, each with a slightly different flavor profile. This is a steal at $7. Slap down a 10, and you're a big tipper. 2605 Hampton, 314-781-1620, offthevinestl.com
Sandwiches
It might seem odd that a restaurant with a reputation built on pasta could churn out noteworthy sandwiches, but Stellina Pasta Café owner/chef Jamey Tochtrop has a lot more than semolina up his sleeve. At the top of our list is the South Side Smoke — caramelized onions, smoked Gouda and pulled pork that's been braised in-house for five hours and smoked for another two, piled high on a sea salt ciabatta. And the Talkin' Turkey, made with house-roasted bird, will definitely have you talking — about your next visit. 3342 Watson, 314-256-1600, stellinapasta.com
Server
"Tell the chef this sashimi is too rare. Also, I have a wasabi allergy. And is this water organic?" We'd fillet the customer. At Oceano Bistro, Cheker Arfaoui handles these cases with aplomb, good humor and a smooth professionalism to remind us that being a server is a worthy craft, as much art as it is service. His style — polished, precise and pleasant — is one the up-front staff of many a restaurant would do well to emulate. 44 N. Brentwood, 314-721-9400, oceanobistro.com
Quesadilla
Quesadillas have become as common as Corona and as predictable as the lime wedge on top. Beef, chicken or cheese? Please! There are myriad untapped combinations out there, so how about a smidge of originality? Maybe some fresh spinach, a few grilled shrimp, toss in a few portobellos for texture, some tomatoes for color, and bind it all with a tasty blend of cheese. Say what? Nachomama's has been serving exactly that for over a year? Oh. Nevermind. 9643 Manchester, 314-961-9110, www.nachomamasstl.com
Patio Dining
A patio is a patio is a patio, right? For some, perhaps, but not for those who patronize Terrene, where a patio is a bilevel introduction to the art of Zen dining. Partaking outdoors dovetails nicely with the restaurant's earthy mission, and its elegant backdrop means you won't have to rough it to achieve harmony with nature. Unless you consider "roughing it" eating your frites on a lovely silver table, surrounded by all manner of greenery. 33 N. Sarah, 314-535-5100, terrene-stlouis.com
Reason to Take a Drive
At Erato on Main, former commercial fisherman Kevin Willmann could have cast a wide net and rolled out a safe "we do it all" menu. Instead, it's "three entrées and a dozen small plates." If that scares you off, you have missed the boat. His seared scallops with Oregon black truffles alone are worth the 40-minute drive from St. Louis. You want fresh? Gulf red grouper is not just perfectly slow-roasted to order, it's often cut to order. The kicker? Erato's low prices cover the cost of gas (but not the limo). 126 N. Main, Edwardsville, Ill., 618-307-3203, eratoonmain.com
Bakery Item
What is the first thing you notice when you approach a bakery case? Sure, the fruit tarts, those big, colorful, glistening, overlapping fruit-and-berry, big-as-your-face masterpieces. But all you want is a taste ... OK, maybe a few bites. At La Bonne Bouchée, honey, they've shrunk the tarts! Their myriad minis pack the same fruit punch — but in a Tonka-size package. They're at their best now, in this berry wonderful summer season. 12344 Olive, 314-576-6606, labonnebouchee.com
Value
Getting what you pay for — that's value. Getting more than what you pay for — that's part of the frenzy at Revival, the dream and creation of chef Cary McDowell. You'll sing praises for the stewed-rabbit ravioli, shout out at the Southern "supper steak" and bow in reverence to a classic derby pie. Sure, you can find other places with entrées in the mid-teens, but none deliver with such passion and culinary articulation. 3800 Chouteau, 314-771-3939, revivalstl.com
Gift Cookie
If you're lucky enough to receive a bag of Colleen's Cookies, you get an outstanding assortment of cookies but little else — no address and no phone. Who is she, where is she ... Is she a she? From a secret location in Chesterfield, Colleen Thompson bakes cookies to match any occasion or none, ranging from a better-than-anybody's chocolate chip to an impressive box of St. Louis–landmark-shaped iced shortbread cookies. If Amos became famous, someone oughta be calling Oprah. colleenscookies.com
Perennial A-Listers
Woofie's: Hot Dogs
Ted Drewes: Custard
Carl's Drive-In: Flat-Grilled Burgers
Tony's: Fine Dining
Kreis': Prime Rib
