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$$$$ Entrees over $20
An American Place
An obsession with local foods would have the chef at An American Place serving Missouri-grown scallops if he could get them. The emphasis is on fabulous ingredients, honestly, masterfully prepared. Oysters Rockefeller with a brown butter emulsion, foie gras seared with a huckleberry gastrique, spit-roasted quail with a chanterelle-and-chestnut risotto. The cheese selection is exquisite, the wine list even better. This is St. Louis’ best hotel dining and one of its best restaurants, period. 800 Washington, 314-418-5800, anamericanplacestl.com
Annie Gunn’s
We have simple tastes. A nibble of wild boar; sun-dried blueberry and pine nut sausage; lobster fonduta penne; or lamb loin chops and a plain ol’ Ozark forest mushroom chutney, and we’re happy. Fortunately, this kind of home cooking is available at Annie Gunn’s. And they can rustle up something to wet your whistle, from a Wine Spectator Award–winning cellar. So remember Annie Gunn’s. For the kumquat chipotle compote just like Mom used
to make. 16806 Chesterfield Airport Road, 636-532-7684, smokehousemarket.com
Araka
Sinking the equivalent of many a nation’s GNP into a restaurant at the foot of Clayton’s Ritz-Carlton was a risky venture—but one that’s paid off. Araka is among the handsomest eateries around, magnificently decorated—including the must-see restrooms. Presentations are lavish and imaginative. Finished with gooey fontina and truffle shavings, wild mushrooms are stuffed into cannelloni. A veal chop is adorned with sweetbreads on a pillow of pancetta-spiked polenta. Desserts, like chocolate hazelnut bars, are suitably extravagant as well. 131 Carondelet Plaza, 314-725-6777, araka.com
Busch’s Grove
Defining “élan” in atmosphere, décor and dining, this stunning—wait. What? You’re kidding. Ceni in pace, Grove. We hardly knew ye.
Cardwell’s at the Plaza
The grind of shopping at Plaza Frontenac tries lesser mortals. You managed it like Hillary mounted Everest, with aplomb and verve. An appropriate reward for you and your shopping Sherpas is dinner at Cardwell’s. Warm goat cheese tortes. Baby-back ribs smoked, then finished on the grill with a house-made barbecue sauce. White cheddar–baked macaroni. Mussels steamed in a tomato-and-saffron broth with crusty French bread. A stunning wine list. Who deserves it more? 94 Plaza Frontenac, 314-997-8885, cardwellsattheplaza.com
Citizen Kane’s Steak House
A charming renovated Victorian home houses this seventh little circle of Vegan Hell, St. Louis’ premier steakhouse. New York strip and rib-eyes arrive still a-sizzle, properly seared, glistening, packing a load of beefy flavor, done exactly as ordered. Pork chops are phone-book thick, appetizing, tender and juicy. Coupling such entrees with sides like sautéed potatoes, onions and peppers, plus a refreshingly light vinaigrette on salads, makes this the perfect
place to take your poor, overworked cardiologist. 133 W. Clinton, 314-965-9005, citizenkanes.com
Harvest
In winter, grilled duck breast with a blueberry vinaigrette. In spring, rabbit and roasted trumpet mushrooms tossed with pappardelle ribbons. Summer means lamb shanks roasted in their own juices. This fall? You can bet it will be another dish finely tuned to the season, a specialty of this local favorite upscale eatery. Regulars rave about the bread pudding, but we think nothing says dessert better than buttermilk onion rings with cayenne blue cheese dip. 1059 S. Big Bend, 314-645-3522, harveststlouis.com
Monarch
You’ll come for pistachio-encrusted lamb chops; you’ll stay for the pan-seared grouper and sweet potato hash. Sumptuous dining in sumptuous surroundings, Monarch burst onto the scene a few years ago, never losing stride since. The elegantly appointed dining room is complemented by a more relaxed bistro area offering fare like tenderloin empanadas and an olive-studded Mediterranean risotto. A great wine list, professional service and flair in presentation all work to make this a standout dining destination. 7401 Manchester, 314-644-3995, monarchrestaurant.com
Niche
Finding its own in the Benton Park neighborhood, Niche combines cool, minimalist décor with an innovative passion for food. Quince, couscous-like fregola, garbanzo flour panisse—even the connoisseur is hard-pressed to identify ingredients here. Memorable tasting menus may include duck medallions and chewy faro grains or blackfin tuna crudo with watermelon and basil. Just don’t miss Dia’s cheese bread. Niche seats only 40, so reservations are a must, often difficult to procure but worth the trouble. 1831 Sidney, 314-773-7755, nichestlouis.com
Tony’s
A glorious retro-restaurant from the days of formally attired waiters, snowy tablecloths and plush seating, Tony’s offers the grandest formal dining in the region. Classics like lobster Albanello, veal Milanese and rack of lamb, along with steaks and fabulous pastas, are complemented by a staggering wine list. And the stories you’ve heard are true: Service here
defines “impeccable.” 410 Market, 314-231-7007, tonysstlouis.com
