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$$$ Entrees $16–$20
Acero
Maplewood’s Acero has added a welcome new dimension to local Italian dining. Savor ordering a course at a time, beginning with superior cheese and meat antipasti, then moving on to delectable pastas like linguini with smoked pork jowl. Garlicky Florentine-style steak and veal sweetbread scaloppini are utterly successful secondi courses. Don’t miss the creamy polentas, cooled on marble slabs and mixed with braised oxtail, lamb ragù and other delights. 7266 Manchester, 314-644-1790, acerostl.com
Atlas
Consistently ranked among St. Louis’ best since it opened in 2003, Atlas continues to charm and reward diners. The setting is intimate, trim and comfortable. The menu changes constantly. May you experience rack of lamb with mint salsa verde, striped bass in a minestrone broth or the cabernet-braised short ribs with roasted potatoes. A house-made terrine is exceptional; French fries are legendary. The chocolate truffle cake has probably inspired more “tomorrow I diet” vows than any other dessert in town. 5513 Pershing, 314-367-6800, atlasrestaurantstl.com
Chez Leon
This popular CWE eatery was bistro before bistros were big. Très hip for the neighborhood flâneur or the West County pieton provincial, offerings like seared foie gras, sautéed veal medallions in white wine with mushrooms, pan-fried trout meunière and mussels in wine with shallots and garlic are a Julia Child dream. A Grand Marnier–soaked soufflé and a leisurely summer evening café allongé on the patio make the perfect finish to a meal here. 4580 Laclede, 314-361-1589, chezleon.com
Franco
The faithful convene at Franco to huddle in rapture over steamy, lusty bowls of bean and pork cassoulet. Crusty grilled pork rib-chops and delicate pan-roasted chicken have their fans as well, though every item on the compact menu tempts. Sweetbreads and house-made pâtés are successful; a thick French onion soup gratinée is exemplary. Lots of wood and brick make for an attractive, urban-chic interior; the place is usually crowded and happy. 1535 S. Eighth, 314-436-2500, eatatfranco.com
Frazer’s
Another Benton Park standout, Frazer’s contrived campy décor doesn’t distract from the gloriously satisfying food. Starters like feta-sprinkled mushroom strudel hint at what follows. Bacon-wrapped beef and chorizo meatloaf, crawfish étouffée, seafood pasta—the range and excellence here are refreshing. Salmon Frazer, a fillet crusted with horseradish, pecans and bread crumbs, served with beans and rice, is memorable. An extensive wine list and attached lounge add to an atmosphere serious about both food and a festive evening. 1811 Pestalozzi, 314-773-8646, frazergoodeats.com
Mosaic
First, get friends. Second, go to Mosaic. Sit around. Order slowly. Try a nibble of duck prosciutto. Bathe your tongue in a purply Malbec. Linger over the risotto chunky with lobster and crawfish. Or savor knobs of herbed gnocchi with asparagus and truffle sauce. Or sample your friend’s wild mushrooms and pancetta in flaky pastry. Steal a bite of your other friend’s dulce de leche. Sip a tawny port. Reflect on how life—well, isn’t it grand? 1001 Washington, 314-621-6001, mosaictapas.com
Nobu’s Japanese Restaurant
Most local Japanese restaurants are passable. Nobu’s is one, however, that gets it right. Dozens of details, from the seasonal changes in the miso soup and in the recipe for sushi rice, demonstrate the chef’s expertise. Sushi is good here; tempura is crispy, golden and hot. Even better, though, are traditional dishes like yellowtail jaw, grilled and flecked with salt, or thick stews of shellfish in rich broths redolent with the aroma of the sea. 8643 Olive, 314-997-2303
Oceano Bistro
The place in St. Louis for seafood. In a jazzy, airy space, it’s haute tide for fishy comestibles. Mussel shells tower over a platter of steamed shellfish stew in a luscious broth. This October at Oceano, wild salmon sits atop a bacon-wrapped arugula cake, and grilled bigeye pairs with a long bean–and–tangerine salad. A wine list laden with fish-friendly varietals helps make this a favorite gathering place for seafood aficionados. 44 N. Brentwood, 314-721-9400, oceanobistro.com
Pomme Café & Wine Bar
From the exposed brick walls to the chalked menu, Pomme Café needs only a snotty garçon to create a more authentic French bistro feel. The atmosphere charms. Service flatters. Unpretentious meals, like a hanger steak salad, French onion soup and hot roast turkey on ciabatta, all work. So does a Belgian chocolate mousse dessert. Note: Late-night “snacks” here are rewarding; pâtés, terrines and cheese plates offer the most civilized “after 10” dining in the area. 44 N. Central, 314-721-8801, pommerestaurants.com
Sage
Starters like thick onion rings fried in AmberBock-buttermilk batter and smoked salmon quesadillas prepare you for 15-spice-rubbed ribs, crab-stuffed sole and the famous tomato sauce–glazed “real deal” meatloaf, with buttery whipped potatoes. Just-enough shot-glass desserts are a splendid finish. Dinner at this spacious, sophisticated and comfortable eatery has become deservedly popular since the place opened just a year ago. Patio dining is a summertime delight. A cute little brewery next door offers tours (Dutch- and French-language translators available upon request). 1031 Lynch, 314-256-1203, sageinsoulard.com
Sidney Street Café
Try to find something you wouldn’t order on this menu. Go ahead. We’ll wait. Going to pass on the roasted, herb-encrusted tenderloin in wine sauce? The apple wood–smoked duck breast? The halibut wrapped in potato? Say, “Thanks, I can do without the oyster poor-boys or veal dumplings”? We didn’t think so. So go. Everyone else in St. Louis raves about this extraordinary, multilevel crystal-and-candlelight restaurant; you won’t regret joining the club. 2000 Sidney, 314-771-5777, sidneystreetcafe.com
Trattoria Marcella
Too much local Italian dining is as bland as a TV anchor’s suits. Trattoria Marcella shakes up the Parmesan, combining innovations with luxurious classics. Try offbeat polenta fries and a Marsala cream dip, or sample traditional farfalle in a lemon cream sauce with flaked smoked salmon and English peas. Osso buco and squash stuffed in ravioli, ladled with cherry demi-glace, is nuovo; the lasagna is superbly old-school. Note the affordable wines, with lots of Italian bargains. 3600 Watson, 314-352-7706, www.trattoriamarcella.com
Vin de Set
Spacious-rehabbed hip, with vaulted ceilings and arched windows, Vin de Set’s famous for its rooftop patio dining, a sprawling yet convivial space. There is no better bouillabaisse in town. Short ribs braised in Burgundy, grilled scallops and monkfish swaddled in bacon are just a few of the delights here. Savory crepes are a delicious specialty. The kitchen is relentlessly creative, presentations are sophisticated and reservations are a must. 2017 Chouteau, 314-241-8989, vindeset.com
