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| Photographs by Katherine Bish | |
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Momos
Few dining experiences are more irritating than sitting near one of those obnoxious jackanapes who shouts "Opa!" in a Greek restaurant every time a plate of saganaki goes up in flames. Good Greek food, though, is worth some discomfort, and, in the case of Momo's, the food is far better than just good. Mezedakia have been called Greek-style tapas, and the description is apt. Main courses include pita-stuffed gyros, hefty with lamb, slivers of red onion, freshly chopped tomato and creamy tzatziki sauce. Fragrant skewers of shish kebab come with potatoes roasted with oregano and lemon. Savvy diners, however, will share a succession of small plates of hot and cold meze. A house-made yogurt goes into grape-leaf dolmades. Char-grilled octopus is tender, and the lemon seasoning accompanying it demands to be sopped up with bread. It's the myzithra cheese--along with kalamata olives, artichokes and caramelized onions--that makes the flatbread pizza splendid. Try the spreads that make meze dining so wonderful: Skordalia, a puree of olive oil, garlic and potatoes; and taramosalata, a bright, salty puree of salmon roe bearing a tang of lemon, are both perfect for crispy slivers of fried eggplant or rounds of chewy pita. The interior at Momo's is happy and suitably folkloric, with orangey-red walls and comfortable seating. And the restaurant has become a hot spot for the nightclub crowd, with a rotating crew of DJs spinning swing, soul, lounge and dance music.Forget about: The Euro-stupid "Deitinis" and "Hemlocktails," mixed with ingredients such as apple juice and amaretto, more suitable for sorority girls than Greek gods and scholars
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630 North and South, 314-863-3511, momos-stl.com
