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| Photographs by Katherine Bish | |
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(page 7 of 13)
Melange
This new addition to the Central West End dining scene defines its name in advertisements as: "Ma-lanj: (adj) 1. Eat. 2. Drink. 3. Be Yourself." This demonstrates that its owners did not major in English. Melange is a noun, of course, a mixture of often incongruous elements. Presentations here are lively and inventive and reflect the matching of disparate ingredients. Instead of grape leaves, it's a sheath of Savoy cabbage surrounding leeks and wild rice with roasted parsnips in an odd and satisfying take on dolmades. How about tarting up a beurre blanc with red curry sauce, then pouring it over ginger-crusted tuna that's hit the fire just long enough to get a good sunburn, still sashimi-red in the center? We'd sell our autographed Sammy Sosa Superball bat for good spaetzle, so imagine what we'd give for Melange's house-made version, scented with truffles. Though Lord knows we've tried, not enough can be said about the importance of a bone left in meat. It's right here in a center-cut pork chop, grilled and served without any further ado than a side of roasted-corn spoonbread. Melange also offers an ever-changing array of farm-raised game meats and a similarly changing variety of house-made pastas. The veal liver and onions draws raves, as does the soft-shell crab when it's on the menu. The view of the Central West End from this attractive and comfortable dining spot is excellent; pop for one of the affordable wines and raise a toast.Consider, especially if someone else is paying: The Sunday brunch, highlighted in our April issue and among the best in town.
512 N. Euclid, 314-361-8883, melange-stl.com
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Red Moon
Decide whether you're a Shark or a Jet before heading down the West Side Story alley of St. Charles, the street just off Washington that's perfect for a rumble between feuding ballet gangs. With appointments and a menu unabashedly stylish, this place bounded onto the local dining scene, almost instantly becoming a favorite for the trendarista. Admittedly, that's a crowd that is to good food what TiVo is to a trout. Red Moon is exceptional, though, managing to be popular with both the Beemer-and-mojito crowd and serious gourmets. Further, the kitchen here pulls off the extraordinary trick of matching Asian ingredients with Western foods (and, in some cases, vice versa) and creating unique and superb dishes. The red snapper, deep-fried whole and presented upright and "swimming" across the platter, is a triumph on the table; the crispy skin and meaty flesh is even better. A chunky lamb shank, big enough to feed two, is braised with carrots and dusted with cumin; the meat is flavored with a lemon essence. The osso buco is similarly huge and also braised, slathered with a tamarind sauce. A pad thai is a credible recreation of this classic, but a red-curry dish with egg noodles and crabmeat is spiked with andouille sausage no Thai chef ever dreamed of. Sides such as fried plantains, a slaw of ginger-smacked shredded beets and fried sweet potatoes with a ginger-orange aioli contribute to make dinner here a bright, frequently dazzling adventure.Give serious consideration to: The side of light chocolate ice cream that comes with the bittersweet chocolate tart, sparked with just a hint of black pepper. Surprisingly delicious.
1500 St. Charles, 314-436-9700, redmoon-stl.com
